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This is an archive article published on December 2, 2004

Tourist’s travails: taken for a ride

One thing you learn about the City of Joy is that the taxi drivers, like those in most Asian countries drive like maniacs and rip you off fo...

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One thing you learn about the City of Joy is that the taxi drivers, like those in most Asian countries drive like maniacs and rip you off for the pleasure of taking you for a ride. Day One of the second Test at Eden Gardens ended in serious confusion as the drive became so embroiled in an argument with one of the Kolkata traffic constabulary, we thought the driver, vehicle and occupants would be locked up for the night. It added more confusion to a traffic system that is already organised chaos; all of this adding to the quixotic ambience of the city.

Ruffled feelings were placated, but not before this misadventure ended up in a near fine and what should have been a Rs 40 ride cost almost double that as the driver navigated the same block three times and misread a no-entry sign. At least the rickshaw pedal-pushers of Kanpur knew their town better.

GETTING SHIRTY

It’s a little like the auction of Team India memorabilia at the Sports Photographers Association of Bengal at the Taj Bengal. While Rs 4.5 lakh was raised for worthwhile charities, it’s an insult to watch the bidders dismiss one famous historic innings and fawn over another.

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One of the shirts worn by VVS Laxman during his great 2001 double century epic against Australia at the Eden Gardens, rated the best of this fledgling century and one of the top 10 in the history of the game, went for a mere Rs 15,000.

And if the 281 classic runs that turned a series and history was knocked down at a bargain price, the rude elbow jolt came when a set of gloves worn by Virender Sehwag during his 309 scored against Pakistan was bought for Rs 1.1 lakh. And Sourav Ganguly’s shirt worn in the 1999 Nairobi quadrangular — which involved Hansie Cronje’s South Africa and which is now under investigation by the ICC — went for Rs 20,000.

And Laxman, sitting in the audience, might think again when allowing one of his prized possessions from that innings being put up for auction.

ACTS OF MERCY

At least a couple of wives of the touring South African contingent are doing their bit for charity. Elna Rudolph, wife of batsman Jacques, and Romi Bryden, wife of veteran South African journalist Colin, offered their services to the Missionaries of Charity and for a day became volunteer Sisters of Mercy.

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They turned up for duty at 7 am to be assigned duties in the wards of the home for orphans in the sprawling Lower Circular Road area, where the Albanian-born Mother Teresa lived.

BACK IN OLD NAPOLI

Dining out in the City of Joy also has its moments. Eating at a shopping mall is fun as there are a variety of food stalls to suit the palate and the pocket. There was some curiosity as well, at what this traveller had decided to take from the menu of one stall. From experience of South Asian conditions, it teaches you to follow your instincts.

Yet this is still a journey that is hard to beat for the people you meet, even the strange mix that you come across in Kolkata. In a way, it has touches of the Italian city of Naples about it: congested but liveable and in some ways, very loveable; especially Eden Gardens.

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