The tiny town of Nainital seems averse to change. I visit it year after year and find it very much the same, except for the addition of a bit of greenery here, or the scalp of the mountain showing a bit more there.The blue-green lake depending on the mood of the sky the red peaks of St Joseph's college, the chiming of the bells at Naina Devi temple, the chubby-faced schoolchildren and the band playing at the Flats in the `season', they simply refuse to age.Shimla stopped being the summer capital of India 50 years ago but the culture the British left behind in the UP hills lingers on. The old mansions stand witness to the glory of the Raj with their slanted roofs, fireplaces, French windows and outhouses. The cottages still bear their old names Edge Hill, Emily Lodge, Bow Cottage, Glanmore. And there's the very aptly named Sleepy Hollow the area near the university office.The sahibs' secluded bungalows generated the need for people to transport their goods there. Right from those times, the porters or `mates', as they are called, have maintained a symbiotic relationship with the place. Driving past the lake even as early as six o'clock on a winter morning, you see the coolies rushing by, carrying loads supported by a rope tied across their forehead. The term `mate' possibly came into being as the British heard them calling out `saathi' to each other. This use is still prevalent in some parts of the hills.With urbanisation, star-studded hotels such as Manu Maharani, Arif Castles or the Naini Retreat may have cropped up, but the local stroller's day is made by the bun-tikiya which has been relished here much before the Mahaburger invaded the country.Like the metros, this place also has a Tibetan market which I have been visiting ever since I my first trip to Nainital as a child. The Bhutia market, as it is called, is a wonderful place with exotic wares, in shops manned by attractive young people.A peep inside Modern Book Depot, which has been here for generations, is a sure-fire nostalgia trip. The only thing I found missing amidst the stationary, perfumed candles a hallmark of Nainital and woodwork was the paper dolls we drooled over once upon a time. The place woos boarders with its chocolates, candies and popcorn, besides the owner's infectious smile.One institution sorely missed is the rink, where the more adventurous tourists once brushed up their skating skills. Situated on the lower floor of Capitol restaurant, this place is now an exhibition hall for Jaipuri and Kashmiri clothing.Every year in the first week of May, the local schools arrange their sporting meets, all much-awaited events. The flats come alive with hundreds of spectators cheering on the sidelines. This year, the ground was the venue for a recruitment test by Delhi Police. The sight of dozens of participants sallying past one another in synchronised motion against the backdrop of the mellowing sun was mesmerising.It is, as has always been, in vogue to loaf around on the Mall, licking a Softy even in biting cold weather. Cakes and pastries are enjoyed much and, believe it or not, they are still hawked in steel trunks.While everything is so predictable, even the mood of the local people, the same could not be applied to the sky. ``You cannot trust the weather of Nainital,'' goes a popular saying.On cold evenings, it is fairly common for clouds to waft in through the window and envelop you; the sun enjoys playing truant and a beautiful sunny day may end up sending you scrambling for cover.But even as the lake bobbles, the skies rumble and the haze thickens, the other face of Nainital that emerges remains spell-binding.
