Spring in their step

Coinciding with spring, it’s that season when nature’s exuberance rubs on to everyone’s being. For the tribal youth it’s time to find a lifemate, indulge in some revelry and herald the season of Mahuda, the local brew that is as distinct a part of culture as celebrating Holi without the mention of Krishna and his Gopis or playing it without colours.

The festival is celebrated over a period of a week culminating with Rang Pacham when youth from across scores of villages converge at the haat centre of Kwant two days after poornima.

Amid a bazaar all decked up for the occasion, and under the grinning face of the unattached bania, tribal youth start congregating at the city centre in groups, with every village group identifiable by a specific colour uniform. The groups then move around the city in a carnival fashion, the cadence of dhol beats building up a crescendo that lasts till evening. In between takes place the peacock dance, the display of talent with flutes and drums.

In the midst of all revelry, a coquettish glance, a furtive eye contact and the date is set for a meeting at coming week’s haat. Once the boy and the girl decide that they can live together, the elders are brought in the picture and wedding solemnised.

But the process is not that simple, explains Bhavsinh Rathwa, a government official. ‘‘Only a beginning is made here at the fair. The boy marks the girl, introduces himself and then inquires from others about the connections of the girl. Later meetings take place on weekly haats where exchange of money and other nitty grittys are thrashed out,’’ he says.

And if regulars are to be believed, not all is that fair at the fair. ‘‘The occasion is also used to settle scores, with things getting nasty many a times,’’ adds Rathwa. Heavy police presence stands testimony to the fact. Some uncomfortable changes are becoming discernible to the older generation though. Says Bholabhai Rathwa, a 60 year old,‘‘I hate these boys coming in shirt-pants and dancing to the beats of drums.’’

The change Rathwa is talking about has occurred over a period of time. With more and more tribals moving out of the belt to neighbouring big towns like Vadodara, Surat and Ahmedabad for work, urban attire has made its way even into the important festivities, annoying a few.

But the girls, as they usually stay back, continue to come out in the best of tribal fineries. For the Mikes, a teacher couple from London, it was fascinating to see portraits of King George V on the silver coins that adorned the necklaces of every girl taking part in the festivity.

For a landscape as barren as the one here, the celebrations perhaps mark an accentuated contrast. In an effort to tease nature, colours of dresses worn by the people range from crimson red to sparkling orange, from purple to pink and all kinds of fluorescent.

Meanwhile, amid all the revelry the city bania smiles all the way to the bank. He does not know what the tribals are singing. For him it’s annual money making time.