I’m stuck. I’ve always been a soya-girl, madly in love with tofu. Biting into its silken softness, convinced that every mouthful was rejuvenating my body. After all, it has had a reputation as an anti-cancer, cholesterol-lowering, osteoporosis-fighting, low-fat all-rounder. If, like me, you eat a lot of soya, then read this carefully. From swearing by soya you may end up swearing at it.
For over 4,000 years, soya beans have provided nutrition to the world. This native of China is known to be the most economic source of protein (twice the value of beef, over three times that of cheese or eggs and more than 12 times the protein value of cow’s milk). Also, meat-protein is disadvantaged, as it is acid forming.
Soya has manifold advantages. ‘‘It has isoflavons that mimic the effect of estrogen and therefore is excellent for menopausal women,’’ says nutritionist Anjali Mukherjee. She points out that Japanese women don’t suffer from menopausal symptoms and this is directly linked to their soya consumption.
Research also suggests that soya reduces coronary heart disease and lowers blood cholesterol. This is because soya beans are an excellent source of minerals, calcium, potassium and iron.
Dr Anand Gokani, diabetologist at Bombay Hospital, recommends soya for its excellent protein supply. Here is a quick list of the possible benefits which Jean Carper lists in The Food Pharmacy. Soy is an excellent cardiovascular medicine, it lowers blood cholesterol, prevents and/or dissolves gall stones, reduces triglycerides, regulates the bowels, controls blood sugar, lowers the risk of cancer and replaces estrogen. It also promotes contraception, says Carper. Seems like it could do no wrong, doesn’t it?
But recently, the voices against soya have been growing. American nutritionists Sally Fallon and Mary G Enig say: ‘‘The industry has known for years that soya contains many toxins. First they told the public that the toxins were removed by processing. Then they claimed these substances were beneficial.’’ A study by UK-based Mark Townsend titled Why Soya is a Hidden Destroyer says soya-related food allergies have risen by 50 per cent.
Several scientists, like Professor John Ashby and others, say soya has enjoyed an exalted status because of superlative marketing by a powerful industry. Some studies point out that:
Even the long cooking process cannot destroy high quantities of various toxic chemicals which soya contains. These phytates block the body’s absorption of minerals and the enzyme inhibitors hinder protein digestion. Soya’s high levels of phytoestrogens (also known as isoflavons) which mimic the hormone estrogen could, according to these researchers, even block it.
It doesn’t prevent osteoporosis say American nutritionists, Fallon and Enig. In fact, it blocks calcium and causes vitamin D deficiency. It’s also said that soya puts vegetarians at risk of mineral deficiencies.
Dr Mike Fitzpatrick, a New Zealand-based biochemist says that soya contains high levels of phytic acid, which blocks the absorption of essential minerals in the digestive tract. Phytoestrogens in soya depress thyroid function. Japanese research has shown that 30 gm of soya a day results in a huge increase in thyroid-stimulating hormone. This can cause goitre, hypothyroidism, and auto-immune thyroid disease.
The deluge of this conflicting information is enough to make anyone’s head spin. The idea of airing them in this Good Food Debate is just that, to start a debate. Also, it’s useful to be aware of global developments. ‘‘I’m not standing up against all this mounting research,’’ points out Anjali Mukherjee, ‘‘all I can say is that in 18 years of my practice, I have only found positive benefits of soya.’’ These include raised energy levels and benefits for menopausal women. Anjali says that in India, where the majority is vegetarian, soya is critical for providing protein. Moreover, all nutrients work in synergy with others, not in isolation, she adds.
This also brings to the fore the fact that one should eat everything in moderation. I know a young, body-conscious couple who eat tofu for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Such extremes should be avoided. As Dr Gokani points out, ‘‘When the building is complete then you don’t need more than a wheel barrow of bricks for reconstruction and repair.’’
The question which bothers me is how are the Japanese so healthy even with the huge intake of soya? The anti-soya lobby has an answer—‘‘That’s the big myth on which the idea of ‘healthy’ soya is built. In fact, the Japanese don’t eat that much soya: a 1998 study showed that a Japanese man typically eats about 8 gm (2 tsp) a day, nothing like the 220 gm (8oz) that a Westerner could put away by eating a big chunk of tofu and two glasses of soya milk.’’ They say that though the Japanese may have lower rates of reproductive cancers, this is due to other factors: they eat less fatty meat, more fish and vegetables, and fewer processed foods than in a typical Western diet.
So, to my mind, the solution would lie not in completely avoiding soya, but also not in going overboard either. Enjoy soya products—but do so in moderation.