No Reservations

When you finally leave the safari van for the bush breakfast, you feel like the intruder, honoured to be allowed to encroach. And when a scampering monkey makes off with the butter, you take the hint and leave8212;as any polite guest should.

The transition from untouched wilderness8212;even the dead trees are left to crumble and decay8212;to five-star luxury is made with surreal ease. While there are bathtubs and unlimited hot water in every lodge, the lighting is dim, there are no fans or air-conditioners, never any TVs or newspapers, and often, even cellphones don8217;t work.

Between courses of Lobster Thermidor, veal, salmon and turkey, you even forget to phone home about the herds of zebra and families of giraffe you saw through the day.

A short drive from Samburu Lodge is the hamlet that houses the chief of the Samburu tribe8212;Ben Mantarian. For about 20 per head Rs 915 he offers a tribal evening, complete with dance, a visit to the tiny 8216;marketplace8217; and a peek inside the huts. It8217;s a great time to buy handmade souvenirs. And as you leave, one of the women may even add a few more to your collection 8216;8216;as gifts, because you liked my bracelets8217;8217;.

After Samburu, head 200 km southwest to Lake Nakuru and the scattered pink dust of two million flamingoes. There are hot springs here, with mineral-sulphur vapours that feel better than the most exclusive spa.

On the drive there, you8217;ll cross the equator, where a local demonstrates how water drains in opposite directions just a few feet away8212;and offers a 8216;diploma8217; certificate to attest that you have been on the equator. This is also a great place to buy knick-knacks8212;everything from camel-bone necklaces to masks and handmade daggers.

And everywhere there is the staggering landscape. Under the explosion of cloud over an ink-blue sky, there are miles and miles of flat land dotted with umbrella acacias and wild gazelle. Here in the Rift Valley, there is no sign that Man has waged two World Wars, dropped atom bombs, tested nuclear weapons. In fact, in most of Kenya, there is no sign that Man exists at all.

Flamingoes crowd the shores of Lake Naivasha, 70 km southeast of Nakuru. And, if you8217;re living at the Naivasha Sopa Lodge, chances are you8217;ll look out of your verandah at night and see hippos chomping on grass.

Far more dangerous than the nocturnal rompers is staffer Tim Mogambi. He will straight-facedly offer a hippo ride and only five minutes after you excitedly yell, 8216;8216;Me first, me first8217;8217;, will you notice the tiny smile on his face as he quietly enjoys his joke.

A highlight of any trip to Kenya is the stay at the Mount Kenya Safari Club. With its log-cabinesque suites complete with roaring fireplaces and sunken tubs, a golf course, tennis courts and horse-riding, it8217;s the ultimate in luxury. The live dinner band has a repertoire of Hindi film songs and a shukriya in response to the applause.

To cheer you up on the way out, leave the lodge early so you can drive through Nairobi. With its colonial architecture alternated by monuments, parks and beautiful, modern buildings, it8217;s the perfect way to the 8216;must meal8217;: Carnivore.

Carnivore serves every animal culled at the game reserves, including ostrich, camel and the favourite culinary adventure, croc. But be sure to surrender the little white flag on your table or the parade of animals will get rather overwhelming.

And finally, it8217;ll be time to head home. 8216;8216;You have a beautiful country,8217;8217; I said to the immigration officer. 8216;8216;Oh, you8217;ll be back,8217;8217; he smiled. Well, when you8217;ve left your heart in Kenya, I guess you8217;ve got to go back.