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This is an archive article published on November 25, 2006

No Olives Added

AD Singh paints the town red yet again. This time when he fills in for Muchhad Paanwala

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When the amiable restarauteur A D Singh took Muchhad Paanwala8217;s hot seat on a busy Monday afternoon, the sparks at the Breach Candy corner shop occasioned a traffic cop to steer traffic away from the dynamic duo. Jaishankar Tiwari, aka Muchhad Paanwala, needs no introduction to Mumbai denizens. His unending moustache, blood red tongue and colourful personality are renowned, even abroad, thanks to amused travellers who carry home tales.

He extended a warm welcome to his 8220;old friend8217;8217; Singh. Oddly, Singh doesn8217;t really enjoy paan and has never had it from Muchhad8217;s shop, but they8217;ve known each other for 17 years since Singh lives down the lane. While exchanging hellos, Singh attracted a sizeable crowd. Neighbours stopped to enquire about his new line of work. At a signal, a passer-by in a car yelled out 8220;AD, new job?8217;8217; Singh smiled, 8220;Yes, I8217;m the new paanwala. Why don8217;t you stop for some?8217;8217; His first challenge was a magai paan. Singh may whip up a mean dosa, but the socialite-foodie needed a tutorial in the art of folding betel leaves. Wanting to share the limelight, Muchhad started dispelling wisdom to the novice paanwala.

8220;This seems simple enough. I have tried magai once, it was nice. Although I cringe at the lack of hygiene,8217;8217; said Singh. Seven minutes and 12 ingredients later, an amazed Singh managed to prepare his first paan, that looked unfinished yet appetising. He generously offered it to any takers who had gathered around. 8220;Kaun khaayega mera pehla paan?8217;8217; A local flower vendor rushed forth: 8220;Mein khaaonga,8217;8217; and gobbled it in seconds.sup3;Like a true businessman, Singh asked him how it tasted. Mouth stuffed, the phoolwala just grinned and replied: 8220;Bahut achha hai sir, sabse badhiya paan.8217;8217; Singh was pleased. He continued his chatter with Mucchad in between customers. 8220;What are the different types of paan and why don8217;t you put a pin into the paan after it8217;s folded?8217;8217; he suggested. A very thrilled Muchhad, speaking only in broken English, informed him about the Palang Tod variety. 8220;You see sir, once man has had this, it gives him quite a kick,8217;8217; said Tiwari.

Singh8217;s next customer was a young college student, Kshitij, also from the neighbourhood. Singh kindly asked if he wanted the same magai paan. Not that he had a vague memory of the ingredients that went into his first one, though.

Kshitij helped Singh prepare a saada kalkatta instead. Singh was progressing though, holding forth with aplomb on the number of ingredients and spices that went into the paan. 8220;I thought they only put in some of the sweet stuff and dates,8217;8217; he said. Singh8217;s job, however, wasn8217;t restricted to dishing out the juicy paan, people stopped by to ask for small change and plastic bags, and the restaurateur cheerfully obliged. 8220;Business is better here. I have a high-end restaurant that charges Rs1,000 per head and Muchhad8217;s paans are Rs10 a pop, yet I8217;m certain that our turnovers at the end of the month may be similar,8217;8217; he laughed. Next, a few shy ladies stopped by to ask for some change and a big paan from the adjoining paan shop. 8220;I see I am not allowed to prepare that variety, it must be very special, I think I am going to run this business to a loss,8217;8217; Singh said to Tiwari8217;s panic.

When AD decided to call it a day, he said: 8220;I must be given a medal to have soiled my fingers with all this chuna, katha and gulkhand.8221; And out of a beaming Muchhad8217;s hearing: 8220;If I was here at rush hour, I would have made a lousy paanwala.8217;8217;

 

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