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Journalism of Courage
The peaks glistened in the morning glow, as the clouds cleared to give us a glimpse of the peaks of Nandadevi East and Nandadevi Main. We had walked almost 110 km from the base camp at Munsiyari to catch this sight, playing hide and seek with us, thanks to the heavy downpours; such uncertain weather being common to the Kumaon Himalayas.
A sudden change of plans with the guides saw us beginning the trek 8220;downhill8221; to Leelam where a grassy plain was selected as the location for the night halt.
Friendly folk, most locals speak Hindi and are happy to exchange music and dance traditions with the tourists. The more curious lot is better kept at bay; like the one we came across, who insisted on joining us at the campfire and sang in a strange language, of which we could make nothing. Ask them to translate and they mentioned the occasion on which it is sung, expecting us to follow it up with a song from our desh read: state. But they are very much cued in 8212; there8217;s even a Kumaoni variation of Kajra re8230; and Bunty aur Babli.
From Leelam, we headed to Bogdiyar, the path moving through a forest area. The sun doesn8217;t seem harsh here as most of the way we walk under the cover of large oak and teak trees rooted in a carpet of thick undergrowth. We were compelled to watch our step, not because of the mule dung, but more because of the poison ivy that sends a sharp itch through your body, were you to rub against it. The cure is the paste of a leaf of another shrub growing right under the ivy, but not many know of it and are left to find other solutions to the burn.
At Bogdiyar, we camped at the riverbank of Dholi Ganga, a constant companion along the route. Sourced in the Milam Glacier, lying 15 kilometres ahead of Nandadevi, this river gushes down as a waterfall from the high cliffs, disappears between huge boulders and forms rapids on the lower rocky terrains. And when the sand settles at the bottom of the bottles, the water, in fact, makes for a refreshing drink.
The open spaces of Bogdiyar are a favourite halt for shepherds. Leading over 200 sheep, the shepherds walk along the hills for six months a year. Their constant companion being a dog, which is comparable to the thoroughbred Lhasa Apso. I asked a shepherd where I would find a puppy, at which he pulled out a black ball, heaving up and down, from a gunny bag slung over his shoulder, which incidentally also contained a brown lamb. 8220; Rs 50,8221; he said flatly, before enquiring where I came from. 8220;How is your desh? Is it hot?8221; On receiving a reply in the affirmative, he said, 8220;Won8217;t survive, they are meant for the cold. But very loyal, good watchdogs.8221;
Bogdiyar to Rhilkot and Rhilkot to Ghangar, we walked along a narrow route, where we would often halt on the upper slopes when journeying sheep herds occupied the route. Ghangar 8212; the first proper village we visited. The houses were made of stone 8212; one stacked upon the other 8212; and clustered together over a small plain area. At a distance lay the village temple, from where the road led upwards to the Nandadevi base camp. The wind blew strong at Ghangar; our tents almost blew off twice in the process of setting up the camp.
An area prone to landslides with the weather changing after noon, we had to aim at returning from the base camp before lunch. With weaning oxygen levels, the walk seemed long and slow. The white flowers of the rhododendron speckled the dry surroundings. This variety of rhododendron is popular for its juice and the flower, when eaten raw, leaves a sweet taste.
You are compelled to display a strong belief in the Almighty before this last trek to the base camp, where locals insist on taking you past the temple for darshan of Nandamayya. Lined with bells, with scraps of cloth tied to the dong a common sight at all the temples here, they say that a sighting of the Nandadevi is assured if you pray sincerely. And just to ensure we were convinced, the guide added, 8220;The last two groups didn8217;t catch a sighting! The clouds have been following us too8230;8221;
We bent down and prayed.
