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This is an archive article published on March 4, 1998

Last halt to paradise

As the train lurches into Belapur, one cannot help feeling slightly disoriented. The familiar pungent station smells -- of hot metal, sweat,...

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As the train lurches into Belapur, one cannot help feeling slightly disoriented. The familiar pungent station smells — of hot metal, sweat, deep fried snacks — a heady bouquet that signifies a beginning, an end or a temporary halt, are absent. It’s probably the antiseptic ambience. Odour and urchin free…Sometimes at low tide, the station complex is caressed by a bromine breeze that flows in from the shimmer of salt pans beyond. Otherwise nothing disturbs its equanimity much, except perhaps an occasional clutch of fishmongers, Belapur"s aboriginal community until CIDCO stepped in. The 1,000s of sqft of space above the station, earmarked as commercial, is as yet empty. Meanwhile Belapur station squats supremely, a white megalith overlooking acres of asphalt where someday hopefully, 100s of cars will sun themselves as planned. For now however, the road is so unused that the kolis spread their catch on it to dry. Shrimp, Bombay Duck and Minnows lend this parking lot its unique identity.

Diligentsweepers keep most of Navi Mumbai’s stations clean, daylight streaming through green polycarbonate roofs does the rest, rendering them a fantasy space. At Juinagar, Nerul and Sanpada, architect Ratan Batliboi worked with Shirish Patel Associates (one of the original visualisers of Navi Mumbai) and CIDCO to create stations that were so far removed from traveller"s expectations, that they drew comparisons with airports and five-star hotels.

Once, not long ago, Navi Mumbai used to be a dormitory town across the harbour. Planned to be another lodestone to attract the crowds, congestion and industry away from the megalopolis, Navi Mumbai suffered for many years from an infrastructure ill-equipped to cope with its planners" ambitions. It still remains a diffidently growing settlement of neat, distempered CIDCO homes, but is now constellated with blockbusters. Stations, which many say, helped Navi Mumbai make the transition from sleepy frontier settlement to a vibrant appendage of the mother city.

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So much so,that Juinagar station is now the favourite haunt of movie directors. Its colourful murals and outrageous fibreglass sculptures are a perfect foil for the regiments of dancers roped in from the mainland. It used to alarm Juinagar residents a bit to witness Raveena’s semi-nude gyrations on their beloved platforms in the middle of the day. But now whether its Urmila or Akshay, clothed or not, it"s all old hat really. These days, whenever a film crew lands up to shoot the manicured prettiness of the station and its environs, Juinagar residents are hard put to stifle some yawns…

What renders these stations extraordinary, is not only the maintenance — but also the sequence of space. Unlike the string of suburban Mumbai’s stations, which are willy-nilly the nucleus of suburban life, however functionally and aesthetically unfit they may be for the task; the CIDCO stations were erected after a great deal of deliberation. Initially planned as stereotypes, it is to the credit of the architect and CIDCO’s daringthat they transmuted the brief to become showpieces of the region they were to serve. The intention was not only to create landmarks, reference points for the populace, but also to attract investment into the region.

Much of Navi Mumbai is low-lying terrain, traversed by salt pans and marshes. So the architect developed novel approaches which heighten the sense of anticipation. One reaches the platforms either via generous subways that are burrowed into the ground, like at Sanpada or foot overbridges which command sweeping views of the railway tracks — a magnificently urban experience, like at Nerul. The entrance sequence has been thought out to incorporate layered frames of the surroundings, vistas of the tracks, quantities of pale light and hollow echoes. It cannot of course be compared to CST or Mumbai Central, the great stations of the metropolis, but neither is it a pretender.

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