Chaotic, noisy and throbbing with life, the labyrinthine lanes of Kasba Peth form the ancient section from which grew the city of Pune. Tucked away in one of these lanes, behind the historic Lal Mahal, is the hallowed spot of the Kasba Ganpati, the gram devata, one of the most significant deities of the city.
A reverential stillness envelops the temple as you step inside the narrow doorway which modestly announces the resident deity. The temple has a canopied courtyard (sabha mandap) supported by elegantly-carved wooden pillars and adorned with portraits of the ashtavinayak. A narrow passage with the painted images of Ganesh lead to the inner sanctum containing the deity. The cynosure of all eyes, the red sindoor-coated idol of the benevolent Ganesh, with diamonds for eyes and a ruby in place of its navel, sits resplendent in a silver enclosure.
The historic connections of this temple dates back to the time of Chhatrapati Shivaji. The temple, owned and managed by the Thakar family since its inception, was also frequented by Shivaji’s mother, Jijabai. “The origin of the idol is shrouded in mystery. It is supposed to be swayambhu, one which emerged naturally in the form of Ganesh and there are records of it being with our family for at least two centuries before Shivaji,” says Swanand Thakar, one of the proprietors. The stone temple was built circa 1638, during the time of Shivaji, when he spent his formative years at the Lal Mahal and Vinayakbhat Thakar, a highly devout man, became the first in the family to be appointed as the official priest. “While the idol is popularly called Kasba Ganpati, it is also known as Jayati Gajanan or the Lord who is the harbinger of victory. It is believed that Shivaji would come to pay his obeisance to this deity before his campaigns and return victorious,” explains Sharad Thakar, another proprietor.
The wooden canopy of the sabha mandap was built later, during the time of the Peshwas. An enclosure of silver embellishments was added to the temple in the early part of this century. “On bagging an important contract, Rao Bahadur Ganpatrao Kenjale, a building contractor, presented the temple with the enclosure made of pure silver as a gesture of his gratitude,” says Thakar. Besides the main deity, the idols of Vithal, Rukmini, Nandi, Maruti and Dattatreya also find a place on the temple premises.
The Thakar family, that centuries ago migrated to Pune from Indigaon, a village near Bijapur, has carefully preserved the sanad or legal document which confers the management and ownership of the temple to it.
Today, the 17th generation of Thakars, inheritors of a prestigious legacy, perform the daily rituals that constitute the worship of the Lord. Earlier, the day would begin to the sound of the chaughada (a drum), meant to rouse the lord from slumber. This practice has since been discontinued while the detailed aarti that followed at 5.30 am has been retained. The application of sindoor twice a week, on Wednesdays and Saturdays, explains the thick and red layers on the stone idol. While festival days that make up the Hindu calendar like Diwali, Chaitra Padwa and even gaaraki Chaturthi and Sankashti Chaturthi are observed with aartis, it is the Ganesh janmotsav that is celebrated with more fervour. During the five-day festivities, the deity is decked in ornaments – a mukut and poshakh – and bhajans and kirtan are held on the temple premises.
Renovations are being carried out inside the temple at the moment. The ancient chipped surface of the stone flooring is being replaced with marble tiles while paintings depicting scenes from the Ganeshpuran will soon adorn the walls.
Such is the faith this deity inspires, that devotees bow before it prior to embarking on any auspicious course. The regular stream of worshippers who file past the deity every day is proof enough of their enduring devotion.