Etched Forever in Memory

So if these caves, situated about 100 kilometres from Aurangabad receive over 25,000 visitors per month, have been designated as world heritage sites and have moved the Japanese to extend a loan of 7,331 million yen for its upkeep and preservation, it8217;s definitely not without reason.

In fact it8217;s probably the Japanese aid that has given the site a new lease of life as evident from the well manicured lawns and surprisingly clean premises that greet you at the foot of the hill. And as you begin the absolutely fascinating journey through the caves, adding to the unforgettable experience are the recently added muted lamps, throwing just the right amount of light on the sculptures to capture the essence of the era when these wonders were crafted.

A guide is mandatory to help you unravel the mysteries behind the caves and their adornments 8212; be it the intricate sculptures or the magical paintings and murals. Of the 34 caves that make up Ajanta, only about 10-15 are of public interest at present 8212; the rest being either incomplete or closed. Nevertheless a good five to six hours are required as you weave your way through the caves located on the rocky sides of the crescent-shaped gorge.

While four of the caves are temples devoted to the Hinayana and Mahayana sects of Buddhism, the rest are viharas 8212; residences of the monks who chose the caves as ideal places for meditation and rest during the monsoons, when they were unable to travel and spread the message of Buddha.

Right from the golden hued painting of the Padmapani, the lotus bearer 8212; 8220;through whom we market Ajanta to the world8221; informs our guide located right at the beginning to the gigantic sleeping Buddha in Cave no. 26 located right at the end, the journey through Ajanta takes you through the life of Buddha and his earlier incarnations 8212; the latter narrated through the Jataka tales.

A panorama of paintings tells a complete story encompassing the entire gamut of human emotions 8212; love, passion, jealousy, pride, detachment.

Of particular note is the bull painted on one of the ceilings with its eye looking straight into yours from any angle in the cave and the meacute;lange of four deer with a common head, both of which reveal the sheer genius hidden underneath the artistic skill of the craftsmen.

The caves that evolved from second century BC to 6th century AD were lost to the world after the Buddhists mysteriously abandoned them in the 7th century, to be rediscovered only on April 28, 1819 by a British army officer, John Smith, while he was out on a hunting expedition. The rest is history recreated.

The ongoing restoration and preservation of these caves is a painstaking task. 8220;It takes an artist one year to restore 24 square inches of a painted ceiling,8221; we are told by our guide. If Ajanta is compellingly mesmerising, Ellora is equally captivating for its stunning architectural genius. Though the multicultural caves devoted to Hinduism, Buddhism and Jainism are more in number, they are smaller in size. The piece de resistance here, though, is the Hindu Kailasa temple .Carved to represent Mount Kailasa, the home of Lord Shiva in the Himalayas, it is the largest monolithic structure in the world, carved top-down from a single rock. With the largest cantilevered rock ceiling in the world, it covers twice the area of the Parthenon in Athens, is 1.5 times high and involved removing of 200,000 tonnes of rock. It is believed to have taken 7,000 labourers 150 years to complete the task.

A differentiating feature of the sculptures at Ellora, you notice, are the expressions on the faces of the gods and goddesses 8212; from a smilingcountenance to absolute serenity.

Much like the expressions you yourself walk out with at the end of the day.

How to get there

Aurangabad around 99 km from Ajanta and 30 km from Ellora is the gateway to the region, and is generally where you would arrive or depart from. Aurangabad airport is located around 10 km east of the town, and is directly air-linked to Mumbai, Delhi, Jaipur and Udaipur. By rail, Aurangabad is well connected to Mumbai and other cities. There are two trains that depart daily from Mumbai. The Tapovan Express leaves Mumbai early morning, arriving in Aurangabad by late afternoon, while the Devgiri Express is an overnight train. There are several luxury and state-run bus services between Mumbai and Aurangabad and the Ajanta and Ellora Caves.

The caves are open from 9.30 am to 5.30 pm six days a week. They remain closed on Monday.

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