Durga Puja and Navratri: Of the culinary clash of cultures and some ‘vegetarian’ mutton by Bengalis

While Bengalis feast as if they’ve just come off a Keto diet on most days of Durga Puja, restraint is exercised on Ashtami, the most important day of the pujas. On Ashtami, people would normally have vegetarian meals, enjoying delicacies like khichuri served with an array of fried vegetables, luchi, alur dom, and sweets, as much as their cholesterol allows.

However, the day after Ashtami, Navami, is when the feasting resumes in full swing. Traditionally, mutton is prepared after the ceremonial sacrifice of a goat during the pujas. Nowadays, the sacrificial goat has been replaced by watermelon or sugarcane, which is anointed with a sindoor tikka and then “sacrificed”.

While Bengalis feast as if they’ve just come off a Keto diet on most days of Durga Puja, restraint is exercised on Ashtami, the most important day of the pujas. (Photo: Unsplash)

Navami is also the day you can savor the famous “Niramish Mutton” or “Vegetarian Mutton” bhog. You might wonder what makes mutton vegetarian—well, here’s the truth: nothing. It is a textbook example of an oxymoron.

In its defense, though, the dish can be considered “partly vegetarian” because it’s made without onions or garlic—similar to many other Bengali dishes. It’s reminiscent of the cuisine of Kashmiri Pandits, who prepare meat without using onions or garlic.

This delicious traditional moist lamb dish has a surprisingly rich gravy. It is best eaten with some piping hot, fluffy luchis or just with a plate of good old gobindobhog rice. I would like to share this recipe with you.

Thamma’s Niramish Mutton Curry (Grandma’s Vegetarian Mutton Curry)

Serves 3

Ingredients

500g – Mutton, cubed
60g – Yoghurt
500ml – Hot water
3 tsp – Turmeric
1 tsp – Salt
1 tbsp – Mustard oil
2 tbsp – Ghee or refined oil
3-4 – Bay leaves
4 tsp – Cumin, freshly ground
4 tsp – Coriander, freshly ground
4 tsp – Ginger, ground
4 tsp – Mustard, ground
2 tsp – Red chillies, ground

(‘Garam masala’ powder is made with 2 cardamoms, 4 cloves and a 3-inch piece of cinnamon)

Method

* Marinate the mutton in yoghurt, turmeric, a teaspoon of salt, and mustard oil. Refrigerate for an hour.

* Heat 1 tablespoon of ghee or oil in a thick-bottomed pan and add the bay leaves. Add the meat with the marinade and cook on high flame for 3-4 minutes.

* Reduce the flame to medium, cover and leave for 5-6 minutes.

* Once the meat releases a little moisture, add all the spices except ‘garam masala’.

* Keep stirring till the moisture evaporates.

* Add the hot water, cover and simmer till the meat is tender.

* Stir in the ‘garam masala’ powder. Cover immediately to trap the fragrance.

Next week, I will be travelling to the land of gourmet food and will return from foreign shores to share what I ate, saw and ate more of.