‘Diners in London don’t just settle for curry anymore’

What sort of food does the Talli Joe kitchen stand for?
The core idea has always been to take inspiration from the regional communities of India and their various cuisines, and to bring those influences back to the Talli Joe kitchen, before adding our own twists. These twists can be in the form of unusual ingredients, different methods of cooking, deconstructing elements of dishes and using mostly British produce.

How big is Indian food scene in London? Do people still associate India with curry and spices, or have they moved beyond it?
It has changed big time. Nowadays, because a lot more people travel, diners know more of what to expect from Indian cuisine. They don’t just settle for curry; they can identify the difference between a north Indian dish and one from the south. They can identify regional flavours. They don’t settle for chicken curry anymore, they want to know from which part, which region and which community the food comes from. Restaurants no longer offer ‘Indian’ food; they have broken it down into Bengali, Gujarati or Keralite specialities.

How did the legend of Talli Joe come about?
We knew what we wanted to do, but there are so many restaurants opening in London every day that you need to have a concept that intrigues people. We came up with the character of Talli Joe, an everyman traveller in India, because there is a little bit of Joe in everyone. We wanted to expose Indian flavours not only in the food, but with our drinks as well. Most of the time, all our energy is concentrated on the kitchen, but we made sure to put in a lot of time and effort working on the drinks menu too.

Chef Sameer Taneja (L) and the Desi Slider at Talli Joe, London.

How was your experience in London before Talli Joe?
I came to London 13 years ago, and at that time, Indian food was limited to the curry — every time I went out to eat Indian food, I got curry, rice and naan. Nothing more and nothing less. In 15 years, I have seen the food and the culture around it evolve massively. London is a great place to live and work for someone who is passionate about food, because you can find little hidden gems everywhere.

What is your philosophy around food and cooking?
I like to cook with humble ingredients. It is very easy to satisfy diners with expensive ingredients, but with simple ingredients, like, for instance, chickpeas and aubergines, it takes a lot of love and finesse to blow a diner away.

You have also worked at the Michelin-star Benares in London. Tell us about your journey so far?
Over the last 13 years, I have worked at restaurants such as One-O-One, Waterside Inn, Brasserie Joel, Koffmanns and, of course, chef Atul Kochar’s Benares. I was lucky enough to work for great French chefs in London such as three-time Michelin-star Pierre Koffmann, Michel Roux and Pascal Proyart. So these experiences have shaped the way I cook, and the way I approach food. That’s why some of my cooking has a slightly French influence.

Do you complement that with any influences that you picked up from home — Delhi ?
In Delhi, I used to shop in the markets and cook with my grandmother from a very young age. Also, growing up in Delhi, food was an important component of gatherings and events. By 23, I had begun cooking professionally, alongside travelling extensively. Talli Joe’s menu is largely inspired by family recipes; home-style cooking forms a large base for the inspiration behind the menu.

The acquisition or loss of a Michelin star means a lot to restaurants these days. Within months of its opening, Talli Joe is part of the Michelin guide. Is Michelin star the next aim?
For me, Michelin has always been a barometer of cooking and serving good food and drinks. At Talli Joe, we have set our own standards, which we follow religiously, and if Michelin recognises that, then that’s a bonus. We are genuinely very happy to be recommended by the London Michelin Guide for 2017 at such an early stage in our journey.