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This is an archive article published on January 26, 2015

Weavers Studio

The North East Project collaborates with independent design labels to promote artisanal tribal textiles.

north east project, fashion, Sarah Fotheringham, fabric, design, Passport holders by 1701.

The first time Sarah Fotheringham saw fabric woven by the Mishing tribe from Assam, she was totally taken in. The co-founder of Safomasi, a Delhi-based design studio creating hand-printed homeware inspired by travel, Fotheringham is an accomplished illustrator and artist, and she knew how she would use the textile that was special in more ways than one. “Since it was from Assam, we screenprinted by hand illustrations of tea leaves over the fabric to put together a collection of placemats and napkins,” she says. What makes the Safomasi collection unique is that the fabric has been produced by members of Northeastern communities, considered to be at a high risk of being trafficked.

Interestingly, the fabric was sourced by the North East Project (NEP), a socially focused design collective movement, which aims to generate awareness for the fight against human trafficking by creating and selling such bespoke products. Founded by Impulse Social Enterprises, based in Shillong, and the Brewhouse, a creative agency based in Delhi, NEP has roped in, apart from Safomasi, independent fashion and product design labels such as bhane., 1701, Fizzy Goblet and NorBlack NorWhite in this endeavour.

“We have launched our first collection, ‘Cut From the Same Cloth’, to showcase the versatility of the textile in products such as travel accessories, clothing and shoes. This is the first step in what will be a very active journey for us in 2015,” says Harjoth Singh, Director, Impulse, and co-founder of NEP. The revenues from the sale of these products, informs Singh, would be divided between the community of weavers and the design collective to maintain a profitable and sustainable ecosystem.

Among those who have incorporated this fabric in a collection is 1701, an independent leather accessories brand. “My first concern, before I even looked at the designs of the textiles, was its strength and durability. It didn’t take more than a touch and a tug to realise that the fabrics were beautifully made with a skill that is unique to hand woven textiles,” says Karishma Jhalani, Creative Head of 1701. The simple geometric patterns of the textile, says Jhalani, added to the ease of creating a collection that would allow the textiles to do the talking. “We put together toiletry bags, passport folders, currency folios and baggage tags and are looking forward to using more such textiles from NEP,” says Jhalani.

Though not new to working with textiles from the Northeast, Mumbai-based designer duo Mriga Kapadiya and Amrit Kumar of the label NorBlack NorWhite were eager to take this collaboration with NEP forward. “When we first explored the textiles from the Northeast regions, we instantly fell in love as it gave us a feeling of some of our favourite styles from Mexico. We are very curious to understand the visual similarities, processes and relationships from tribes across the world and how they create designs,” says Kapadiya. Inspired by their previous Northeast and Travel series, the designers used the Mishing textiles to create a Mexican Siesta set, comprising of a top and skirt, which is available in two colours.

Also having put together a collection for NEP is bhane., a basics brand that celebrates simplicity and individuality. They have designed a range of black-and-white tops with Japanese inspired boxy silhouettes for women, while Fizzy Goblet, an independent shoe label, has put together Punjabi juttis. “We have never shied away from mixing the traditional with the new. These textiles were a perfect fit in our handloom section and we used them in the uppers,” says Laksheeta Govil, Founder, Fizzy Goblet.

To make this collaboration an ongoing one, the NEP team is looking to expand their collective of design houses. “We are now expanding the textile range to include more designs, in cotton and silk. We are also in talks to enter international markets such as the UK, Singapore, and other European destinations,” says Singh. While products from the first collection are available at the labels’ stores and online portals, NEP plans to launch an exclusive online retail space. Here’s looking forward to more such initiatives.


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