Santanu Bose Fashion Week: Pushing boundaries and elevating the art of dressing

Bose can be called an avant-garde in the fashion industry in the way he presented his collection. The runway, an illustration of Bose’s fashion having theatrical moorings, was marked by models walking backwards, falling on the floor, using props, showing rage and love, moving in a loop, creating theatrical scenes, and most importantly telling a story. “It’s human beings and their emotions which always interest me. My design attempts to show human beings in their various emotions and existences, even if they’re not real, they’re painted or depicted,” Bose shares.

The three-day event, presented by Maison de Bose, gave a platform to nine designers. While ‘Harshi’ by designer Harshita featured the alluring Chikankari collection in a contemporary style as traditional craftsmanship took on a modern twist, Vicky Saini, a designer of Zardozizari, crafted his design based on the intricate art of zari zardozi, a style of embroidery that originated during the 12th century.

Meanwhile, Shruti Mangaaysh’s handcrafted collection ‘Jugalbandi’ was a perfect blend or ‘jugalbandi’ of new and old textile weaving techniques — the ethereal beauty of pen kalamkari and pichwai art paired with fabrics like organza, brocade, and georgette. The collection of Notre Ame by designers Sobha and Sachin, on the other hand, focused on the idea of upcycling and circular fashion to create global styles and eliminate the need for new fabric manufacturing, noted the press release of the event.

The event commenced with a talk by Veronique Allais Dieu, the French Ambassador for India for the Arts, Luxury, and Gastronomy, on the love story of contemporary Indian and French fashion in the 21st century. “Clothes designed by Santanu are dramatic, have classical patterns and an ode to old Bollywood style; all in all, a treat to the eyes,” Veronique Allais Dieu shares with The Indian Express.

The event potentially set new trends in the fashion industry as it was the first time Bose introduced streetwear in his show, says 25-year-old Shubham Nandra, one of the owners of Jammers, who showcased his brand’s collection at the event.

Bose, who entered the fashion world two years ago, and has done in three fashion weeks since then, was enticed into the couture industry by his “quest to explore more artistic content and find new ways and mediums to express it.” “I have always worked with content and emotion, and models have a unique ability to empty their faces and become carriers of sartorial experience, which attracted me. So I wanted to move away from emoting and enter the realm of emptiness,” he says.

His passion for showcasing instinctive and raw human emotions on stage spills over into his fashion, making it stand out among the multitude of fashion shows and brands. However, he has received warnings about the “over-dramatisation” of clothes. “My close fashion friends completely disapprove of my presentation of clothes. They believe it leans more towards theatre and expression rather than the cleanliness and pristine nature of fashion. As a result, the garment sometimes takes a backseat, and the person wearing it becomes the focal point. However, because I exist between these two realities – theatre and fashion – the wearers and wearables are constantly shifting gears.”

The Santanu Bose Fashion Week expanded the horizons of how we wear and perceive clothes, deconstructing the definitions that restrict us and presenting a gender-neutral and inclusive line of fashion. The event showcased garments that seamlessly integrated with the contemporary realm of style and couture while preserving traditional aesthetics.

“For me, fashion is a detour. It’s a holiday. It’s an affair. It happens in those moments when passion completely consumes you, blows you away, and allows you to float even in the middle of the sea,” concludes Santanu Bose.

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