Meet Indian designer behind Vir Das’s lungi-inspired Emmy look, which fused an ‘undivided India’ with ‘modern English tailoring’

As soon as Das was named the Emmy host, he had extended an invitation on social media inviting young designers across India to create the perfect ensemble for his Emmy outing.

 

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A post shared by Vir Das (@virdas)

After receiving an overwhelming response, Das chose the Delhi-based label Salooka by fashion designer Shubhangi Bajpai. The name of her label comes from stories of undivided Hindustan she grew up hearing, while the word itself is the name for the post-colonial vests worn by men in the northern belt of India.

Creating Vir Das’s Emmy look

Bajpai recalled the initial phase of her creation process for the standup comic’s outfit with excitement, “It honestly started when one of my friends shared his post, claiming he is inviting designers to make his Emmy’s outfit. Now, this is something that Vir has done before but for something like the Emmy’s? Unbelievable.”

The NIFT Delhi (National Institute of Fashion Technology) graduate perfectly emulated the Call Me Bae actor’s brief by borrowing elements from the undivided India, with hints of English tailoring.

According to Vir’s post on Instagram, Bajpai was selected from a vast list of 4000 applicants.

Explaining the ensemble, Bajpai expressed how the attire was woven together from across India, “the fabric for the shirt came from Hyderabad, while the chikankari embroidered on it was done in Lucknow. The suit fabric came in from Bombay while the lining was sourced from Gujarat. The process spanned four states, with countless hands contributing to its creation.”

For the final outfit, Shubhangi suggested a sophisticated ensemble: a crisp single-button tailored jacket and a pleated lungi-inspired pair of pants (made in fine wool suiting), along with a new take on the cummerbund with a button closure. (Source-Instagram/virdas)

When asked about the challenges of creating such an ensemble in just a week, the designer recalled how she thought Das may have selected someone else for the role. “When I was sketching the design, it was a very relaxed atmosphere, there was music playing in the background. It was already November and I knew the Emmy Awards were on the 25th of November. Naturally, I thought I had not been shortlisted. So when I heard from the team, I thought, ‘How am I going to do this?’ Because the silhouette was experimental, the sourcing was tricky and there was embroidery also. I was really anxious but so excited. It made me feel alive,” Bajpai revealed.

 

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A post shared by Salooka (@salookalife)

For the final outfit, Bajpai suggested a sophisticated look: a crisp single-button tailored jacket and a pleated lungi-inspired pair of pants (made in fine wool suiting), along with a new take on the cummerbund, which included a button closure.

In the contemporary era, “the modern man is on the go. So I wanted to create something that was not as tedious as tying a traditional lungi and that is how the cummerband was made. It was for the ease of putting on the outfit, with one button.” she added.

Describing the process, Bajpai told indianexpress.com, “I think it was destined to happen this way, all over India, like Vir wanted. From the chikankari done in Lucknow to the fabrics from Hyderabad, Delhi, Gujarat, and Jaipur. I truly believe that Vir did carry a little bit of India to the Emmy’s; he truly manifested it.”

Mannat is an intern at indianexpress.com