Journalism of Courage
In Paris,where Manish Arora mostly works now,it would be blasphemous to show a retrospective in the middle of a couture week,when all other participating designers are putting up fresh,new collections. But with Indias favourite export to the global fashion world currently home with time on his hands,an exception rode the ramp. Surprisingly,and in what must have come to avid fashion watchers as a big let-down,he showed his past pret collections at a couture week taking the audience and the media for granted.
While the hype (which Arora cannot be entirely blamed for)had pumped up this show as his couture presentation for India,the press release handed out during his show on Friday at PCJ Delhi Couture Week,said the opposite. He thanked FDCI for inviting him to showcase a retrospective of his collections from the Paris Fashion Week over the past five years. It also announced the shows seasons,years and details from which he had curated this selection. Talked of as Aroras big homecoming,fashion followers were left to assume that he had his eye also on India. To his credit,the designer remained transparent about it. I cant show during India fashion week as I have my hands full in Paris at that time, he said after the show. When its time for Indian pret week,I am busy showcasing my work in Paris, he reasserted. This is not a comeback. I am still in Paris where I work, he said.
To a question on Indian couture,Arora answered,There are rules of couture in the West. The clothes have to be handmade in pure fabrics with minimal use of machines. Here,in India,couture is more about designing clothes for festivity and special occasions, said Arora,and added,This is a pret collection that I have shown during Couture Week. My couture label,otherwise,is Indian by Manish.
Undoubtedly,Aroras clothes were as compelling and contemporary as ever,each piece deserving an artists note. A lot of considered thought had obviously gone into curating the selection of his own work and it stood up unambiguously for his brand. Neon polka dots,LED lights and the ramp as a lighted long cage set the theme for a psychedelic fashion staging. For this retrospective,Arora went as far back as Spring- Summer 2008 with the collection India POP; moved to Warriors shown in Autumn-Winter 2008-09,Circus shown in Spring-Summer 2009,Art Deco from Autumn-Winter 2010-11,Joy of Living in 1960s from Spring-Summer 2012 and arrived at the latest Graffiti Art,showcased as part of Autumn-Winter 2012-13. Most of these ensembles have never been shown in India before. Not everyones been to my Paris shows and this was a good time for me to showcase what I do back in Paris, said the designer,who made it a point to mention in his note to the media how the collections have been inspired by India and its great culture which has been the biggest source of inspiration to him over the years.
But neither the FDCI nor Arora himself seemed to remember that in the days of social media and the internet,little is left unseen. And the question remained unanswered why a retrospective was not held as a special off-site show or as the finale? Is it fair to all the other couturiers who showed new collections at the Week?
