Pune on my plate: For the faithful observing Ramadan, Kausar Baug’s streets overflow with flavour and festivity

Originally established as a quiet residential area, Kausar Baug in the Kondhwa area gradually developed into a commercial hub catering to the growing Muslim community in Pune. Over the years, small eateries and local vendors began setting up stalls during Ramadan, offering traditional dishes for sehri, the first meal of the day eaten before the fasting starts at dawn, and iftar or the meal to break the fast at dusk.

Word spread quickly, and what once attracted a handful of locals now welcomes food enthusiasts from all over Pune. With each year, the market expands, with more stalls, variety, and an ever-growing crowd eager to partake in this annual tradition.

From kebabs to haleem and more

The moment the sun dips below the horizon, Kausar Baug springs to life. Vendors hurriedly prepare platters of golden samosas, smoky kebabs, and steaming haleem while shoppers weave through the narrow lanes, eager to break their fast with something special.

For die-hard haleem lovers, Hyderabadi Haleem is the undisputed favourite. It is a slow-cooked, savoury porridge made with wheat, lentils, and meat, simmered for hours to achieve a thick, velvety texture.

“We prepare over 100 kg of haleem every day during Ramadan, and it’s always sold out within hours. It’s thick, rich, and packed with slow-cooked goodness exactly how it should be,” says Mohammed Irfan, the owner.

A few steps away, Supreme Restaurant boasts an iftar menu that’s hard to resist. A plate of mutton biryani here costs around ₹250, and the creamy chicken malai tikka is priced at Rs 200 per portion. “Our mutton biryani and chicken malai tikka are crowd-pullers during Ramadan,” says Shamsi Israr, the restaurant’s manager. “It’s a tradition for many families to pick up their iftar feasts from here.”

For those with a sweet tooth, the legendary Burhanpur Mawa Jalebi offers crispy, syrup-drenched spirals of indulgence. A plate of mawa jalebi is priced at approximately ₹120 per portion. “The secret is in the slow cooking and the quality of khoya we use. We start making jalebis at 6 pm and go on till sehri,” says Shoaib Sheikh, the owner.

And then there’s Star Caterers, a must-visit for kebab connoisseurs. “Our mutton seekh kebabs have been a Ramadan staple for five years now. The blend of spices and the charcoal grilling makes all the difference,” says Abdul Wahab, the manager. A serving of kebabs costs around Rs 150.

Another delicacy relished during sehri is nihari, a slow-cooked stew made with tender meat, bone marrow, and a fragrant mix of spices, traditionally eaten with naan. The rich, deeply flavourful dish is especially popular in the early hours before the fast begins.

Experiencing Kausar Baug

Fifteen years ago, Kauser Baug was just a few vendors serving iftar essentials. Today, it is complete with neon-lit stalls, an ever-growing crowd, and a mix of old and new culinary offerings. Apart from the eateries and restaurants, Kausar Baug is a bustling shopping destination, offering everything from embroidered kurtas and delicate bangles to fragrant attars and intricate henna designs.

The air buzzes with chatter as friends and families gather, sharing plates and laughter. Shahid Qureshi, a visitor from Kondhwa, sums it up best: “This place is pure magic during Ramadan. It’s not just the food; it’s the whole vibe.”

For Ranchi Patel, who travels from Camp, Kausar Baug is synonymous with the spirit of togetherness. “You could be a stranger here, but the moment you sit down with a plate of food, you’re part of something bigger,” says Patel who visits every year.

As the night inches toward sehri, the energy finally begins to wane, only for the cycle to start again the next evening. Every year, Kausar Baug cements itself further as Pune’s ultimate Ramadan destination, where food, faith, and festivity come together under the night sky.

(Sakina Vanak is an intern with The Indian Express)