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Assamese chef Digant Deka brings his mother’s recipes to the city in an Assamese food festival.

Assamese chef Digant Deka brings his mother’s recipes to the city in an Assamese food festival.

Growing up in Guwahati,Digant Deka would often watch his mother cooking,fascinated by the traditional Assamese recipes she prepared. He was in the eighth grade when he tried cooking for the first time. He announced to his family that he’ll cook mutton. As it turned out,he added too much water and his brother complained that it was like fishing for mutton in the sea. Today,Deka speaks of the incident in a tone that is both nostalgic and bashful. At 30,he has behind him over eight years of experience as a chef and is currently doling out dishes at Grubshup.

His repertoire of cuisines and recipes extends far beyond mutton curry now,but Assamese food remains his first and greatest love. Deka will revisit his passion next week with an Assamese food festival. Not many outside the state know of the cuisine,and over the years,several traditional Assamese recipes have faded into oblivion. During the festival,Deka will once again look to the memories of his mother cooking,to recover lost recipes such as Kordoi Tenga and Khar Diya Machor Peta Bhat. These dishes are exclusive to Assam,mostly because the ingredients they require are indigenous to the region. The Kordoi Tenga for instance,uses kordoi,which is a sour fruit found in the North East. Combined with rohu fish,the recipe makes for a sweet and tangy meal. Khar Diya Machor Peta Bhat consists of fish organs sautéed in onion and khar. Khar is a flavour typical to Assamese cuisine,obtained by percolating water through the ashes of a banana tree.

What Deka loves most about the Assamese way of cooking is that it always returns to nature for inspiration. “We use ingredients that we find around us and barely use any spices or condiments. Because of this,the food is very light and healthy,” he says.

Other rare dishes at the festival will include Khar with ginger curry and Noroxingha Pator xoite Mach (a curry of curry leaves). Apart from these,the festival will also feature other popular Assamese dishes such as Amitar Khar (raw papaya cooked in khar) and Bor (fritters) among the vegetarian options. For non vegetarians,there will be Tilor xoite Mach (fish in sesame seeds) and Khorisa xoite Gahorir Maxo (pork with bamboo shoots),as well as a delectable classic item Pothar Manxo or warm mutton broth.

“Everyone is familiar with South Indian food or Punjabi food. I want the same kind of popularity for Assamese food. More people should know what Assamese food is like,” says Deka.

The food festival will be held at Grubshup,on Law College Road on March 16 and 17.

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