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Journalism of Courage
Kimi Dangor
From varsity T-shirts and ink-stained shirts to leather skirts and intricate handiwork—the collections on Day 1 at Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) Summer/Resort 2014 ranged from the practical to the whimsical. Here’s our pick of four distinct lines that were diverse as they were skillful. Decidedly confident, conceptually sound and consummately prêt — these young designers’ labels made a fashionable impact.
Sportswear met sumptuous silks at Huemn’s Summer/Resort 2014 showcase. Pranav Mishra and Shyma Shetty’s label, in its fifth season at LFW, has already developed a reputation for clean lines and simple silhouettes with a distinctly androgynous vibe. But the duo refuses to let Huemn be compartmentalised. With this sportswear collection, they aimed to elevate the humble sweatshirt, slouchy sweatpants and Puma shod look to ‘day luxe’ status and it looked like they had a lot of fun doing it. Seen on the ramp were statement sweatshirts with ‘#Selfie’ emblazoned on them in sequins, silken varsity tees paired with sequin-embellished pencil skirts, track-pants with patterned tops and pant suits with vibrant varsity stripes. The icing on this sporty offering was a black sequinned sari with a giant numeric eight inscribed on its pallu, lending just the right kick of humour. On-trend, young and stylistically simple, Huemn hit this one right out of the ballpark.
Perfect Imperfect
Right from the indigo-dipped teabag stapled to her concept note to the last patchy ink-washed garment to be showcased on the ramp, Sneha Arora’s line, titled Leak, was conceptually creative and well tied-in. A celebration of “imperfections and the beauty of being faulty”, the clothes were literally “leaking” — with collars and plackets dripping blue, soiled shirt pockets and silk and satin dresses made blotchy with ink stains. In keeping with the theme, the colours ranged from dirty ivories and patchy beiges to dusty browns and the omnipresent indigo. A range of practical smart separates like ankle-grazing pants, chambray jackets, pleated dresses and shorts made this ‘imperfect’ collection suitably wearable.
Love All
With a growing celebrity clientele and a burgeoning fan-girl brigade (evident at his show), Nikhil Thampi played to his strengths and to the gallery this season. His collection, titled Untamed, a statement against societal oppression and restrictions on love, had something for everyone. It veered from practical prêt pieces and androgynous shapes to statement-making stylistic flourishes and glamorous evening wear. With a collection comprising all-white jumpsuits and blazers, bright-hued separates, tan-coloured leather skirts and peachy pink and dusty nude red carpet-worthy ensembles, Thampi took many a classic and gave them an unconventional look with cut-outs, zipper detailing and metallic rosettes galore.
Folklore
Characterised by tie-and-dye, leather cutwork, accenting and piping, the line showed by Ikai by Ragini Ahuja was replete with tactile textures and attention to detail. The collection, Asura, had some artful layering with pieces ranging from wearable shorts and skirts to more elaborate dresses, overcoats, kaftans and tunics. She played with deep indigo, earthy brown and grey with hints of red, plum, nude and gold. Ahuja’s fabric accents that formed geometric accents, painstaking leather appliqué on blouses and cutwork detailing on kaftans caught our attention.
mumbai.newsline@expressindia.com
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