The Haute List

Galliano wasn’t the only one to be pink-slipped this year. As the industry grows and makes excessive demands on its designers,three years in a big-ticket fashion house is enough for you to prove your worth. Balmain let go of the loved-up Christopher Decarnin (he gave us power shoulders,rock T-shirts and sequins) in favour of French-born Olivier Rousteing. New creative heads are everywhere. Clare Waight Keller,the former creative director of Pringle of Scotland,whose CV includes stints at Calvin Klein,Ralph Lauren and Tom Ford’s Gucci,now heads Chloe. Pringle introduced another Britisher,Alistair Carr,who has worked for Marni,Cacharel and Balenciaga before. Kenzo has appointed a Humberto Leon and Carol Lim to take over from Antonio Marras and debut in October.

The resignations of Ravi Krishnan and Anil Chopra,from IMG and Lakme,within a few weeks of each other,marked the end of an era in Indian fashion. One can’t discount their phenomenal legacy in setting up a system in a chaotic,disorganised and largely unrecognised industry. But a large section of the fraternity feels other goals took over the mission of fashion and a disservice was done to them.

India continues to occupy more space in the international fashion map. Labels first looked to India only for exotic inspiration,and later for its economic clout. But many young designers are getting their Manish Arora beginnings by finding space in some of most chichi boutiques in the world. Anupama Dayal is one of Anthropologie’s biggest sellers,the discreet Aneeth Arora sells in as many 70 stores worldwide,Pankaj and Nidhi are in the Bubbling Under section at Outnet.com,Net-a-porter’s sister enterprise.

Savio Jon’s return to the runway after three years,this October in Delhi’s Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week,was welcomed by buyers and the audience. His collection was understated,twisted and wearable,and had his pal,international model Lakshmi Menon,opening the show.

As a couturier,few can better Rohit Bal as he proved with his couture presentation this year. He’s been the master of texture and silhouette but he developed the finest embroidery in psychedelic peacock shades for this one. Even the most jaded eyes in the room joined in the standing ovation.

Karl Lagerfeld’s Paris-Bombay collection is a wonderful way to end the year. Busy Lagerfeld heads Chanel and Fendi and shoots his own commercials. Earlier this year,his three-part film advert for Magnum ice-cream with Rachel Bilson debuted at NYC’s Tribeca Film Festival. His new edition of bottles designed for Diet Coke is also out. And he’s brought a new line for Macy’s that starts at $50. Whew!

Tarun Tahiliani’s fashion show at Mumbai restaurant Tote had over 40 Sufi qawwals flown in from Jodhpur to sing live and centre-stage. Models danced among entranced Mumbai Mesdames and curtains of jasmine,and white candles were everywhere. It was a Sufi moment alright,when the art (of the designer and the singer) makes you one with the divine. Even before the presentation had ended,the audience had gotten up and begun to dance and whirl. What’s an applause after this?

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