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This is an archive article published on August 19, 2012

Food Street

For the past month,from evening till 4 in the morning,72-year-old Ayyan Mohammed has been very busy.

For the past month,from evening till 4 in the morning,72-year-old Ayyan Mohammed has been very busy. He can be seen at these hours calling out to the teeming crowds outside the Janata Restaurant off the Mohammed Ali Road,inviting them to try the Janata “isspecial gurda-kaleji masala”,a recipe of goat liver and kidney. He has been working for the past 55 years handling the Ramzan rush at the shop.

Similar shops line the narrow Ebrahim Mohammed Merchant (EMM) Road,popularly known as the Khau Galli (street). The street is further constricted by rows of plastic tables and chairs outside restaurants and sweetmeat shops bathed in colourful,festive lights. People start coming in from 7:30pm after iftar (breaking of the Ramzan fast). The eateries remain busy serving the crowds well up to 4 am during the holy month,says Mohammed.

Taxis refuse to ply beyond Minara Masjid as the road becomes almost non-motorable with people strolling by,checking out roadside garments and ornament stalls and trying out delicacies. Both fasting Muslims as well as curious non-Muslims — attracted by tales of reshmi kebabs that melt in the mouth and various flavours of the popular rice-based sweet dish phirni — throng the food stalls.

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Entering EMM Road,one is met by the rich aroma and colour of delicacies. The range is vast; chicken tikkas in green,red and saffron hanging from the roofs,juicy kebabs with mint and rumaali roti,shawarma rolls,masala beef nuggets golden after being deep fried and a variety of sweets and desserts to name a few.

“Crowds throng the place the most in the last two weeks of Ramzan as the mood gets more festive,” says Abdul Mohammed who boasts he is the only vendor selling mawa jalebis in the area. His cousin’s restaurant nearby specialises in khichda,a preparation of mild flavoured rice with lentil and beef.

Walking even 20 metres may take more than three minutes and one needs ample time to explore the buffets and navigate through monsoon-slushy roads and the swarms of people under the floodlights. Prayers can be heard through loudspeakers from the many small mosques in the area,especially Bohra Mohalla.

A visit to the place is incomplete without the egg-based malpua (sweet roti) served with rabdi. Outside Bismillah Sweet Shop,scores of malpuas come out at a time from the large cauldron of boiling oil. Then there is the shahi tukda,black currant barfi,chickoo barfi,sevai kheer and doodhi ka halwa. Chances are that the rich heavy sweets will leave one yearning for something light and that’s where the sandhali comes in. Prepared on a small cart,the mini-pancake made of rice-flour,mawa,egg,coconut milk and a sprinkle of sugar that caramelises on the pan costs only Rs10.

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After the stroll on the food street,comes the walk back to the taxis,autorickshaws and vehicles parked a good distance away. One would not mind,after savouring all that rich and heavy food.

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