Cast in stones

Increasingly,fashion designers are creating designs with precious metals and stones to complement their clothing line. Jewellery brands,too,are warming

up to the benefits of a

brand-designer association,where the jewellery house helps translate the latter’s

designs on metal using their access to artisans.

For the designers,the advantage lies in getting a free hand and the support of a jewellery brand’s manufacturing set-up.

Designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee,for instance,

had launched Gaja by Sabyasachi,a high-end line of jewellery developed with Kolkata-based jeweller Shree Ganesh Jewellery,

in 2008. More recently,James Ferreira tied up with Gehna Jewellers to roll out a range of cocktail rings and finger jewellery (designs that go beyond the conventional rings). “I have wanted to design body jewellery for a while now but the economics of getting precious jewellery manufactured,and the lack of technical knowhow wasn’t easy to deal with. An established brand’s backing can help one realise one’s plans,” he says. Couturier Tarun Tahiliani,who recently showcased his first range of bridal jewellery at the India Bridal Fashion Week (IBFW) in Delhi,adds that his collaboration with Azva by World Gold Council gave him access to fine craftsmanship from Junagadh,Jamnagar,Mumbai and Kolkata.

In return,jewellery brands gain fresh perspective on customer preferences from a designer. Gautam Ghanasingh,who has partnered with designer Maheka Mirpuri for his label Ghanasingh Be True,emphasises that the partnership signifies a shift in their marketing strategy. “Over a century-old brand,we wanted to look beyond our popularity as makers of fine heirlooms to showcase the magic that quality diamonds and pearls can help create in contemporary designs. Maheka’s design philosophy,aimed at the woman of today,helps us do that,” says Ghanasingh.

Vipin Sharma,Director of Jewellery,World Gold Council,says that the collaboration works well for both parties. “Through his vision,Tarun Tahiliani has contemporised gold designs for the modern bride. Besides,being a bridal designer equips him with the knowledge about the kind of jewellery that would complement his ensemble,” he explains.

The combined brand pull of a known jewellery house and a sought-after designer attracts clientele. “Gautam has put up a special section in his store for this line. I am hoping that eventually his loyal clients would go for the bridal package I offer them — jewellery and clothing,” says Mirpuri. She adds that her NRI clients might also be directed to the jewellery store.

These associations,the two parties hope,won’t be short-term. The World Gold Council has shown Tahiliani’s collections at the designer’s expositions before IBFW,Delhi,and now plans to add to his collection by next February. Dongre,too,will be regularly launching jewellery lines,crafted under her and Jet Gems’ supervision. “These will also be available at my bridal store. After all,it’s about the synergy between two like-minded brands that aim at offering fine quality,” she says.