Around Town: Inside ‘Malgudi’, Shankar Mahadevan’s vegetarian South Indian all-day resto-cafe with its own Kaapi programme

He was referring to his friend K S Ramakrishnan (Ram to most), the CEO and MD of Digiphoto Entertainment Imaging, who launched Eatopia Holdings in 2022. Ramakrishnan recalled long admiring Mahadevan’s culinary instincts. “I enjoyed his hospitality so much that I would land up at his home whenever I was in Mumbai. One day, he said, ‘What I can do in food could be a lot more than what I’ve done in music.’ It was a tall statement coming from him. It intrigued me,” Ramakrishnan said.

Shankar Mahadevan and his friend, K S Ramakrishnan (Express photo)

Months later, over dinner, Mahadevan expressed interest in joining one of Ramakrishnan’s ventures. Ramakrishnan, then building Eatopia Holdings, told him, “You are the real reservoir of food. Why don’t you be a part of all of it?” Within minutes, Mahadevan and his wife Sangeeta and Ramakrishnan and his wife Sanghamitra were mapping out what they could create together.

Mahadevan eventually invested in the company and seven of its brands, from Spice Mantraa to Wandr. When Malgudi, a brand they acquired and reimagined, came along, Ramakrishnan asked him to nurture it. “In less than three minutes, he said yes.”

Mahadevan was clear about the gap he wanted to fill. “When you go out to eat South Indian food, it is usually just an eating activity. It lacks experience. You can’t spend a nice evening there or celebrate an occasion. On the other hand, high-end restaurants are expensive and so dimly lit you need a torch to read the menu. There is a huge vacuum in between,” he said. “I wanted to offer soul food like dosa and kaapi, but in an experiential setting — bright, colourful, welcoming, with kind staff, premium cutlery and authentic taste. A place where you can celebrate.”

He added, “Malgudi is not just about food. It is about stories of family, culture and creativity. Every dosa, every cup of kaapi is a piece of heritage retold for today.”

Thus, Malgudi was born. Its bright indigo-blue facade leads into a space with Chettinad-inspired tilework, an open kitchen and a lively filter kaapi counter. Floor-to-ceiling sheer curtains bathe the room in natural light, while terracotta-topped tables, deep teal seating and orange-and-cream patterned chairs create a warm, South Indian palette. Cane accents, brass touches and framed illustrations and vintage-style posters lend the space a modern yet nostalgic character.

In matters of taste

Malgudi serves an all-vegetarian menu, with no alcohol. The airy, perfectly made thatte idli with ghee podi sets the tone, transporting you straight to Chennai. Another standout is the Mulbagal Legacy Dosa, a 100-year-old recipe from the town it’s named after, a thick dosa that is crisp outside, cloud-soft inside, served with coconut and tomato chutneys, a special puli inji, and the signature Mahadevan sambar.

“Every community has its own sambar,” said Sovon Saha, the corporate chef who spent months travelling across southern India to master the cuisine. “The one we serve is exactly what you get at Shankar Mahadevan’s house.” Their sambar is thicker than most, with a fragrant tempering of hing, mustard, curry leaves, and boriya chilli.

Express photo

Mahadevan travelled with Saha to refine the menu. “I went to ITC Chennai to learn how they make perfect idli batter — they grind it with ice,” he said, emphasising that he isn’t merely lending his name. “People won’t come to Malgudi because I make good music. We are completely invested.”

Other signatures include the comforting Sri Lankan Tamil curry with idiyappam and the Bisi Bele Bibimbap — Karnataka’s classic reborn as a spicy stone-pot rice bowl. While the appetisers (podi cheese balls, crispy lotus root, butter pepper garlic water chestnuts) were underwhelming, the Filter Kaapi Barista program spotlighting Chikmagalur beans, served in brass tumblers, impresses. So do indulgent fusions like Filter Kaapi with Ghee and Jaggery. A non-caffeinated favourite is the Malgudi Picante, a spicy blend of guava, pomegranate, Guntur chilli and activated charcoal.

Next for Malgudi

Although suburbs like Borivali are not usually a celebrity’s first choice for a flagship, the response has been overwhelming. Mahadevan shared proudly that on weekends, there is a waitlist for a table. But why Borivali instead of Bandra? “Hume pata hai hit gaane kaise banana hai (We know how to give a hit),” he laughed. Ramakrishnan admitted they, too, were eyeing Bandra, but research pointed them to Borivali. “If you do something in Bandra, you won’t be forgiven. Borivali allows you room.”

The plan now is to “carpet bomb Greater Bombay.” Their research shows potential for around 20 Malgudis. Beyond Mumbai, they are eyeing Delhi and Ahmedabad. Malgudi already has two outposts in Dubai, with two more and an Abu Dhabi branch in the works.

“Our vision is to make Malgudi the global benchmark for modern South Indian dining culture,” said Ramakrishnan. “We are combining scale with soul, and authenticity with innovation.”

“The perception that South Indian food belongs only in South Indian neighbourhoods is completely wrong,” Mahadevan concluded. “Non-South Indians seek it even more, because for us, it is also what we get at home.”