Punjab with an Accent

This new entrant to the city’s palate arrives with libations, livery and largesse

Punjabi food seems to be experiencing a renaissance in the Capital with an unprecedented number of restaurants, be it traditional or fusion-loving, sprouting up all over the NCR. Pure Punjab by Lazeez Affair, recently opened in Khan Market, is among the most recent examples of this Punjabi proliferation.

The restaurant’s interiors are sedately white with accents of brown, keeping in mind the clientele of the Market. European table service and pristine starched white tablecloths juxtapose amusingly with the liveried, attentive servers and the stainless steel serving dishes destined to appear on our table, which are modelled after traditional kadhais, patilas and milk pails.

The menu is, wouldn’t you know it, an amalgamation of dishes native to the state, featuring a plethora of paneers ,different dals, and many and more meats; several of the preparations taking their sobriquets from the towns of Amritsar and Ludhiana, among others, as well as from across the border. Given it’s a purely Punjabi restaurant there is naturally a litany of libations to accompany one’s meal, whisky and tikka being as natural a pairing as champagne and caviar.

After much reflection we decide to begin with Aloo Najakat and Punjabi Mutton Tikka, which is marked as a chef’s speciality. The vegetarian starter comprises whole, hollowed out potatoes, stuffed with a rich cheese and nut mixture, its edges studded with roasted sesame seeds — the largesse in embellishment rather overpowers the poor potato. The mutton tikkas are large and the colour of a most sanguine sunset, the result of their marination. Unfortunately the marinade hasn’t really had time to sink in, leading to a rather superficial flavouring. It rallies around vaguely when combined with the excellent pyaaz lachcha and mint chutney accompanying it.

For our mains, we have the Khurchan Chicken and Magaj Masala, the brain curry of yore, along with some Garlic Naan, and here things take a decided turn for the better. Khurchan means scrapings, and the dessicated chicken, tawa fried with juliennes of onion and green bell peppers, is redolent with spices, its slick oils begging to be mopped up with crisp garlic studded naan. The brain curry, in contrast, is a gentle affair, the yielding brains cooked in a delicate masala, yet filling in all its simplicity.

Pleasantly sated as we are after our meals, further reportage calls for a sampling of sweets and we order a Kesari Kheer. The kheer comes chilled, in a steel container stylised after a martini glass, treacle like with a slightly grainy texture provided by bits of sticky rice, suffused with saffron without getting too sweet. A graceful finish to a heavy meal.

Meal for two: Rs 2,000 (including taxes, excluding alcohol)
Address: 71, First floor, Khan Market. Contact: 30146025 ext:286

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Punjabi food