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Woven Traditions

They promise to dress you in the weaves of the past,decorated with handloom motifs from across the country.

Malyada Goverdhan and Ramya Rangacharya give traditional handloom weaves and embroidery a new twist through their organisation,HandsofIndia

They promise to dress you in the weaves of the past,decorated with handloom motifs from across the country. Sisters Ramya Rangacharya,a former Air Force officer,and Malyada Goverdhan,a software developer,are trying to revive a range of weaving traditions like Chanderi and Kota and embroidery forms like Ahir from Gujarat through their organisation HandsofIndia (HoI). An exhibition of their works is currently on at Punjab Kala Bhawan,and you could pick up a spaghetti top in kota or chikan work in an innovative range of colours. Chanderi saree borders and patterns have been recreated as western apparel and office wear using embroidery like kantha and phulkaris. Goverdhan shows saree motifs which are almost 100 years old and have been revived.

“Our family in Vrindavan runs one of the oldest temples in North India,Sri Rangji Mandir. The temple has a huge collection of antique sarees,stoles and embroidered dresses as well as an in-house tailoring department that specialises in clothes for the idols. The two of us took care of the Vastra Kothri,(Clothes Room) and,while managing the inventory,we realised that a lot of the handloom weaves had become extinct,” says Rangacharya,now based in Chandigarh,“We were told that the looms that made these weaves have shut down as there’s no market for them anymore. It was disheartening and we dreamt about doing something which would keep our traditions alive,’’ smiles 34-year-old Rangacharya.

In 2004,Goverdhan travelled to California to work on software development projects for eBay and experienced,first hand,the power of the Internet to connect buyers and sellers. Rangacharya,as part of IAF,was posted in remote locations,and got an opportunity to directly interact with artisans. “In spite of being creators of world-class handicraft,these artisans lead a tough and unsung life,lack access to markets,communication skills,and a platform,which builds on their strengths instead of exploiting their weakness,” says Rangacharya.

She quit the IAF,her sister returned from the US,and together they started HoI in 2006,a project to revive handloom weaves and motifs and improve the lives of artisans.

The last four years have been spent working with artisans,identifying issues and challenges,taking part in various exhibitions,studying markets,designing product portfolios and selling through their website. “We focus on embroidery and design patterns to appeal to the younger audience. Traditional embroidery sometimes has a limited colour range,we have modified this according to modern tastes but introduced a wide colour palette,” says Rangacharya.

Their other areas of focus are training,design development,quality control and marketing and financial assistance. “We travel to remote corners of every state and visit the craftsmen at home to understand their art. We give artisans few samples to make. Once the samples are ready and approved,more pieces of the same type follow,” adds Goverdhan. Ready-made lines,she says,make more business sense,and they are planning to create a network of HoI offices across the country for easy accessibility with the artisan. “We have a designing and stitching unit in Vrindavan. If crafts people receive a fair wage for their products,they will be saved from the hardship of migrating to urban centers in search of jobs,” says Rangacharya.

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The exhibition is on at Punjab Kala Bhawan till April 10. Time: 10.30 am-9 pm.

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