Stay updated with the latest - Click here to follow us on Instagram
There is nothing straight and narrow about the new pencil skirt. Far from being prim and proper secretarial garb,this year the modest skirt takes a far more creative and playful leap. The hitherto no-nonsense garment steps out of the boardroom and gets prepped for cocktail hour,retaining its structured shape,but making allowances for bursts of colour,spangles of sequins,zany prints and embellishments.
International designers such as Stella McCartney,Derek Lam,Mary Katrantzou,Prabal Gurung and Peter Pilotto are dressing it up in bold graphic prints,bright colours and textures. Closer home,designers are giving it a fresh lease of life. While Namrata Joshipura sent out pencil skirts in neons with floral appliqué,not-so-coy cutwork and sheer side panels at her Lakme Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2013 finale and set the tone for the season to come,Sailex Ngairangbam presented versions with shibori work,quilted high-waists and even a floor-length piece.
The designer,who admits to obsessing over the shape for a few seasons now,says,The pencil skirt accentuates the feminine form. I feel it also symbolises a strong woman who is confident of her femininity.
Its clean lines demand great pattern-cutting skills and good tailoring,which is why I think it is a very luxurious,classic fashion staple.
Espousing clean lines,yet leaning towards the dramatic,the structured and simple shape of the pencil skirt is also drawing the attention of designers like Yogesh Chaudhary of Surendri. The simplicity in cut does allow for a lot more experimentation,addition of volume or texture without adding unnecessary bulk to the body. Even a simple change in shade can completely revamp a look, says Chaudhary,who introduced a vibrant orange number with a frolicky fishtail in his Spring-Summer line.
Designer duo Shivan & Narresh,too,have taken to the silhouette in a big way. While their Spring-Summer collection has pencil skirts in hand-painted linen and jersey with candy-striped side panels,their Autumn-Winter 2013 line carries a monochromatic number with a front slit and their Naive art-inspired jewelled face around the belt. Instantly formal,yet playful. It makes for the perfect silhouette base to experiment with different fabrics,from easy linens and cottons to structural neoprenes and silhouette defining jerseys, says Shivan.
For those with more creative pursuits,the pencil skirt doubles up as a versatile canvas for prints and surface embellishments. Rimzim Dadu,who works with non-traditional material and intricate textures,took over-sized marble sequins,hand-painted them and then sewed them on to a lime green column skirt for her Summer-Resort 2013 line. Its basic shape allows for experimentation and makes it easy to apply texture to it, says Dadu. For someone who doesnt go for flounce or frills,the sleek shape also spells power. Its not too frilly and feminine. One can simply throw on a jacket for an androgynous look or wear a quirky top with it. Id team it with an over-sized t-shirt or even a georgette ruffled blouse, she says.
This ability to be dressed up and down as per the whims of the wearer also lends the pencil skirt a distinct edge. The garment is easy to wear,which makes it perfect for a casual affair,but also has the right amount of formality in its cut and silhouette,which widens its scope for wearability, attests Narresh.
With a shape thats likely to go from a summer style statement to a winter wardrobe essential,designers advocate some degree of restraint while donning the pencil skirt. While being trim and toned is a pre-requisite for this fits-like-a-glove number,the right kind of shapewear is a must too,according to Sailex. The correct length is the clincher whether it ends just over the knee,at the knee,at mid-calf or lower-calf depends on an individuals height and structure. My personal tip is that a pencil skirt should never be too short. A thigh-level skirt is not a pencil skirt; its a tight mini skirt. With Manish Arora,Ranna Gill,Shantanu & Nikhil,Hemant & Nandita and Sanchita Ajjampur offering exciting Autumn-Winter options of the skirt,Narresh
recommends: Keep it simple and effortless,that is
all that the silhouette demands.
Stay updated with the latest - Click here to follow us on Instagram