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This is an archive article published on February 5, 2012

Down to Hearth

The days of the pizza being the only authentic Italian dish in restaurants and cafes across the city are long over.

The wood-fired oven at Oregano is dishing out more than just pizzas

The days of the pizza being the only authentic Italian dish in restaurants and cafes across the city are long over. The last couple of months have seen the pizza make its presence felt after undergoing nothing less than a makeover. It’s become leaner in crust (the fat,doughy ones are hardly ordered),heavier on toppings and at most places,it is being dished out of a flaming hot wood-fired oven. But there’s more to the hearth than just pizzas. This point comes across well at Oregano,the Italian trattoria-style restaurant at JW Marriott Chandigarh.

Oregano,spearheaded by an expat chef from Italy,Chef Antonello Cancedda,is hosting a ‘Wood Fire Oven Festival’ that offers a fairly substantial list of meals besides dishing out pizzas of choice. The meals here bring back a slice of Italy — the region of Sardinia to be precise — which is Chef Antonello’s home. The menu,comprising starters (antipasti),pizza,pasta,main course (secondi) and desserts (dolci) is definitely a tongue twister and for those not well-versed with the Italian fare,it can be a bit intimidating.

But don’t let that (or the prices) hold you back from treating your tastebuds to “something different”. We began our culinary journey with a Fritatta di Zucchine e Origano (Rs 350) and Selezione di Bruschette: Caprino,noci e miele tartufato,Capponatina (Rs 400). The Frittata is not treated as an omellete here,even though it essentially is. Our’s was served hot in a pan with a generous use of baked zucchini,oregano and parmesan cheese. The chef,unfortunately,was too generous with the salt in the Frittata. The Bruschetta,again staple Italian fare,was crisp and the one with goat cheese and walnut,truffle and honey was the winner. Given the dreary weather,Oregano makes for a cosy setting and it only helps that the oven is not too far,the cooking happens in an open kitchen and the winter sun (though weak) manages to penerate the ceiling-to-floor glass panes.

Adding to the warmth was Gnocchi alla Parigina (Rs 700) that arrived superbly hot,again in an iron griddle,and packed in herbed parmesan and Gnocchi gratin made from semolina. The cheese and warm gratin is perfect for a winter day and works well to fill up two very hungry diners.

For those looking for non-vegetarian options,our recommendation would be either the Petto di Pollo in crosta di erbe su letto di porri e carote (Rs 450) or Filetto do Trota in crosta di speck,patate alla savoiarda (Rs 800). The former is a starter but we think it works well as main course,while in the latter dish,parmesan and herb crusted chicken is served on a bed of leeks and carrots.

Since everything comes out of the oven,baked,the meals aren’t greasy but the cheese definitely shoots up the calorie count. The Filetto de Trota is a gourmet delight with a trout fillet wrapped in crispy Parma Ham crust that is baked and served with potatoes.

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If you still manage to save up space for dessert,then try the Frutta mista Caramellata alla Fiamma servita con Gelato or caramelised fresh fruit flambe with ice-cream (Rs 475) .

Wood Fire Oven Festival is ontill February 10

Meal for two: Rs 2,500 (including taxes)

Location: JW Marriott Chandigarh,Sector 35,Chandigarh

Contact: 3955555

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