A look inside the luxurious Palace on Wheels

With a noble motive to promote tourism in Rajasthan, the Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation along with Indian Railway launched the first Indian luxury train Palace on Wheels on January, 26, 1982. The concept of the Palace on Wheels was derived from the royal background of the coaches, which were originally meant to be the personal railway coaches of the erstwhile rulers of the princely states of Rajputana, Gujarat, the Nizam of Hyderabad and the Viceroy of British India. (Express photo by Rohit Jain Paras)

This royal Indian train has 14 guest coaches, all of which reflect a decorative style similar to that of the personal carriages used by the Maharajas of the yore. Over the years, the train has been refurbished many times to accommodate technological advancements so that a better tour experience can be ensured to the guests. Moreover, the high-tech modern amenities have also been introduced along with modification in the itinerary and off-train excursion tours. (Express photo by Rohit Jain Paras)

Each saloon highlights the cultural ethos of the state, represented through the use of furniture, handicrafts, painting and furnishings. Delhi-based interior designer Monica Khanna did the interiors of the train. (Express photo by Rohit Jain Paras)

The train has two lavish restaurants "The Maharaja" and "The Maharani" with a Rajasthani ambience serving palate tickling Continental, Chinese, India and Rajasthani cuisines. (Express photo by Rohit Jain Paras)

The restaurants offer seating arranged in groups of twos and fours near the windows. Chefs in the attached pantry prepare Continental and Indian specialties, with an emphasis on the cuisine of Rajasthan. (Express photo by Rohit Jain Paras)

The Palace on Wheels boasts of a well-stocked bar offering the choicest of sprits of Indian and international brands. (Express photo by Rohit Jain Paras)

The Palace on Wheels is regularly refurbished to a great extent. The decor in the saloons, bar lounge has been changed, keeping in mind the traditionally aesthetic yet modern, Palace on Wheels. Toilets have been redone and are maintained sparkling clean. Each saloon lounge has been equipped with color television and a CD player. A satellite phone is on the way to make you communicate anywhere in the world from the train. (Express photo by Rohit Jain Paras)

But last month, on March 30, there was an “unusual” development. For the first time since 1982, there were no bookings; and though the tour got back on track a week later with 45 tourists, the first-ever cancellation was a bitter pill to swallow. It was hardly surprising, though. Luxury rail travel has been under the weather for a while now. For PoW, the number of passengers has dwindled from 2,883 (or 79 per cent occupancy) in 2011-12, to 1,739 in 2015-16. Each season lasts from September to April. (Text: Hamza Khan; Express photo by Rohit Jain Paras)
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According to a 2004 study by Mustafa Malik of Aligarh Muslim University, titled “Role of Indian Railways in the promotion of tourism: A case study of Palace on Wheels”, it was a BBC series, Great Rail Journeys of the World (1980), that led to the inception of the PoW. Soon, the rail authorities began to plan a project to “attract foreign tourists, particularly those from the UK”, where the series, and especially the feature on India, had generated much interest. (Text: Hamza Khan; Express photo by Rohit Jain Paras)

In March 1981, the Ministry of Commerce put forward a draft of the proposal for a pilot project at the Indo-British Economic Cooperation (IBEC) talks. Soon, the Board of Trade of the UK government extended their cooperation as well. “The proposal defined the project as a hotel on wheels that is mobile at night and stationary during the day at a particular destination, so that the tourists can move around,” says Pradeep Bohra, 59, PoW’s general manager, who was a young joint assistant manager at the Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation (RTDC) in the 1980s. (Text: Hamza Khan; Express photo)

RTDC runs PoW with the Indian Railways on a 44:56 profit sharing basis. In 1982, PoW was launched by restoring old saloons dating to the early 20th century that belonged to erstwhile maharajas of the princely states of Rajputana (Rajasthan) and Gujarat, the Nizam of Hyderabad and the former viceroys of British India. “The saloons of the original PoW included a coach built in 1907 for the Maharaja of Bhavanagar, which had an ornamented ceiling and teak-body panels. Another saloon, built for the Maharaja of Jaipur in 1936, had verandas covered with flower motifs on both sides and the exterior was painted in white with purple and brown lines at the windowsills. The Viceroy’s Carriage, a popular saloon, was manufactured in 1913 and used by the Maharajas of Rajputana,” writes Malik. (Text: Hamza Khan; Express photo)
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An undated boat-shaped carriage with woodwork inside, made for the Maharana of Udaipur (Mewar), was converted into a restaurant annexe. “The furniture provided in it could be folded to convert this car into a discotheque, and was equipped with disco lighting and music arrangements,” says Malik. The oldest saloon belonged to the Maharaja of Bikaner and dated back to 1898. However, within a decade, the coaches developed technical problems, and were replaced by a new, fully air-conditioned train in 1991. (Text: Hamza Khan; Express photo by Rohit Jain Paras)

For approximately 400 USD per person, per day on the PoW, all they have to do is put their feet up. (Text: Hamza Khan; Express photo by Rohit Jain Paras)

The PoW has a staff of 62-42 from RTDC and 20 from Indian Railways. RTDC staff includes three in management, 14 each of house assistants/saloon captains and room attendants, five chefs, three kitchen helpers, a store keeper and two barmen. (Text: Hamza Khan; Express photo by Rohit Jain Paras)

Pradeep Singh, 47, who is the Jodhpur Saloon captain, reaffirms that “tourists primarily come abroad to experience the days of the Raj and to see what it is to live like kings and queens.” Prabhu Singh, 58, a salon attendant, says that the key is “to be at your polite best at all times.” (Text: Hamza Khan; Express photo by Rohit Jain Paras)

After a long day, before PoW begins to journey through the night and gently lull its passengers to sleep, barman Sanjay Mathur is ready to soothe their bones with a variety of top scotch, wine and cocktails. As for the PoW, at 48 per cent occupancy this season, it may be down but it’s not out. About 420 bookings have already been made for the next season. (Text: Hamza Khan; Express photo by Rohit Jain Paras)
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