Exhibition showcases original costumes from Satyajit Ray’s 1977 film Shatranj Ke Khilari

An exhibition of original period costumes created for the 1977 film by Satyajit Ray, Shatranj Ke Khilari (The Chess Players) titled A King’s Gambit - Chess, Costumes and a Crown, is on view until November 5, 2021, 11 am to 7 pm at Art Gallery, Kamaladevi Complex to celebrate the maestro's legacy at 100 years. (Source: IIC Art Gallery)

Based on research and original sketches by Ray himself, and Shama Zaidi, the costumes were created by local dressmakers. (Source: IIC Art Gallery)

The costumes reflect the detailed and fastidious research that went into the production of the film; Pages from Satyajit Ray's own notes & sketches for the film (Source: IIC Art Gallery)

Apart from costumes, the display also includes footwear, turbans, costume jewellery, stills and working stills, copies of letters and pages from Ray’s kheror khata (script book). (Source: IIC Art Gallery)

The material for the outfits spanned a variety of velvet, brocade, silk and even wool as the setting was winter. They were procured from Hyderabad, Lucknow and Calcutta. It was a deliberate decision to opt for muted hues – gold, copper, bronze, pastel shades of green, blue and peach. (Source: IIC Art Gallery)

On display are a wide range of achkans, angrakhas, jamas, pyjamas, shararas, ornate cholis, turbans, pagris, silver ornaments, and footwear from Suresh Jindal's personal collection. (Source: IIC Art Gallery)

Interestingly, Bansi Chandragupta, the art director from Bombay, scoured his city for authentic props and finally found them in Calcutta. Quite a few heirlooms were generously loaned by Wajid Ali Shah's great-great grandson, Anjam Qudr, a resident of Metia Burj in Calcutta. (Source: IIC Art Gallery)

According to Indrani Majumdar, translator of Ray, the costumes were studied in museums, paintings, engravings and old photographs. Salar Jung Museum, Falaknuma Palace of the Nizams of Hyderabad and City Palace Museum of Jaipur were primary sources for the film’s research. Archival images available at the erstwhile Bourne & Shepherd photographic studio in Calcutta were another significant resource.(Source: IIC Art Gallery)

After an elaborate consultation with the National War Museum in London, Andrew Mollo, a British expert on military uniforms, did the sketches for the military costumes, which were arranged sequentially according to scouts, cavalry, horse artillery, general and staff, infantry, heavy artillery and baggage. Red and gold, blue and silver, red and yellow and white uniforms were produced for the Bengal cavalry. In this context, Shama Zaidi who was closely associated with the film categorically mentioned that "As this was a pre-mutiny sequence, army uniforms before the mutiny were not standardised." (Source: IIC Art Gallery)

Pages from Satyajit Ray's own notes & sketches for the film (Source: IIC Art Gallery)