Walking on Water

Apart from the stunning architecture and the aquatic adventure,what makes Venice special is that it’s the best place in the world to get lost in,as you inevitably will. The main city itself is fairly small but it is made up of a warren of mysterious passageways and diversions that makes it one of the most alluring cities in the world. There are sites that will be on every tourist’s guidebook — the historic St Marks Square with its magnificent cathedrals and also Cafe Florian,considered the oldest running coffee house in the world; nearby is Harry’s Bar where its most famous patron,writer Ernest Hemingway,made heavy inroads into its famous Bellinis. There’s the Doge’s Palace,the Rialto and other buildings devoted to the arts,but just wandering through the narrow passages,shops and eateries on either side,without knowing where you will emerge,is one of the highlights of the visit. In fact,one of the guided tours is the ‘secret itinerary’,which takes you to the part of the Doge’s palace where the city’s administration worked,as well as the jail where Casanova was housed.

The true heart of the city is the celebrated 9th century Piazza San Marco where the pigeons always outnumber the tourists. Napoleon famously called it “the drawing room of Europe”,and by night it becomes a magical place,with live music,restaurants and crowds of people who come here just to sit and soak in the atmosphere. By day,it is a tourist trap but as long as you avoid the aggressive vendors and the overpriced shops,it is perhaps the most historic part of the city,dominated by the stunning architecture of St Mark’s Basilica with its arches and marble decorations and jaw-dropping interiors along with the animated Clock Tower. The Doge’s Palace occupies one side while the iconic statues of four lions and the two bronze based columns form a gateway to the canals. It’s a great place to view the famous Murano glass but more rewarding is to take a water bus to the nearby island of Murano and watch the glassblowers create their exquisite products.

The best part about Venice is sitting in an osteria (a casual restaurant or pub) alongside one of the canals watching the water traffic slide by and sampling the local cuisine,especially the seafood,along with fegato alla veneziana,Venetian-style liver,or cicchetti and delicious deserts like fregolotta (a crumbly cake with almonds); a milk pudding called rosada; and cookies made from yellow semolina called zaléti,washed down with some sparkling prosecco. The best restaurants are close to the Rialto. Being a pedestrian-only city,everything is within walking distance,but it can be exhausting so frequent pit stops for food and drink are recommended.

If you are an art lover,Venice will be a delight. Just off the Grand Canal is The Peggy Guggenheim Museum which houses her personal collection of modern art including works by Picasso,Kandinsky,Duchamp,Pollock,Dali,and Mondrian.

Thomas Mann,in Death in Venice,wrote: “This was Venice,the flattering and suspect beauty — this city,half fairy tale and half tourist trap,in whose insalubrious air the arts once rankly and voluptuously blossomed,where composers have been inspired to lulling tones of somniferous eroticism.” Antonio Vivaldi was Venice-born and taught here and if you sit at night in St Mark’s Square where live orchestras take turns to play music,you are certain to hear a version of his most famous composition,The Four Seasons,played with punk-rock energy.

It is a reminder that Venice is the place where you’ll find history,beauty and romance in almost every corner. It’s a unique experience,stepping out of your hotel and into a gondola,looking for another mystery to unfold. That is reflected in the famous Venetian masks that are available in the many little stores found in every corner of the city.

How To Get There: All major airlines fly to Venice from Delhi and Mumbai with stopovers in Munich,Dubai,Brussels,Frankfurt and Paris.