The tourist brochures at the unusually quiet Izmir airport scream Istanbul. The tourist brochures at the unusually quiet Izmir airport scream Istanbul. It appears as if the people of Izmir want tourists visiting their town to marvel instead at the intricate Blue Mosque and experience Turkey through the dilapidated paradise offered by Istanbul. But Izmir,seven hours by bus from Istanbul,should be visited to savour the quiet of a non-touristy city in hyper-touristy Turkey. Izmir might not offer you legends of harems and beheadings,but it gives you a sense of history,large helpings of fresh fish and cheese and will enchant you with the enthusiasm of its people. Most of the main streets in the city are narrow but not very crowded. At a sea-facing hotel,the setting sun greets us. Fishermen return home and anchor their boats that are left bobbing for the night. I start my exploration of Izmir with a walk by the citys windswept shoreline. I come across a huge well-lit naval ship from the early 20th century anchored in the middle of nowhere,which has now been converted into a museum. Called Inciraltı Sea Museum,it is part of a museum of two decommissioned vessels of the Turkish Navy and a submarine and frequently holds underwater photography exhibitions. There is no beach in Izmir,yet the walk offers a fantastic view and gives a sense of the city. Some of the slopes,valleys and hills that surround the sea are still bare and exude serenity. The shoreline is dotted with a slew of roadside cafes,docks for ferries and small bazaars. A dinner of Turkish pizza,cheese and olives later,I flit into the back streets with a fellow traveller. This is where I figure that Turks love two things their fish and Kemal Ataturk their first President,and not in that order. His pictures can be seen everywhere along with the Turkish national flag. The next morning begins with Turkish coffee and pancakes. We then visit Kadifekale castle (the velvet castle),built by the successor of Alexander around 360 BC. The panoramic view of the Aegean Sea and the entire city from here is breathtaking. Izmir is well suited for road trips,with huge sweeping landscapes,fig and pine clad mountains and decrepit villages,interspersed with minarets and cypress trees. One of the road trips leads us to the ruins of the ancient city of Smyrna,which is still being excavated. The Agora open-air museum on the outskirts of Izmir was constructed during the rule of Alexander and is a great piece of Roman engineering. The remnants and the architectural fragments are quite a sight. The murals in bright colours and designs are still vivid. The library and the big amphitheatre are also brilliant achievements of engineering and remind us of a time when they would have provided an ideal setting for performances under starry skies. Our next stop is Saint Polycarp Church,the oldest church in Izmir,reconstructed in 1620. The church,which is mostly closed to public was opened on our request and is a masterpiece in its own right. The ceiling frescoes,one of which depicts The Last Supper,is in perfect condition and very impressive. Izmir also boasts of a church near the ruins of Agora,where Virgin Mary is believed to have spent her last days. Izmir straddles east and west,and seems to be discovering what is right for it. When we visit a small pub at night,with men and women swaying to traditional Turkish tunes blended with western beats and guzzling mugs of beer,we notice the women arent wearing headscarves. However,they don their headscarves as soon as they step out. The city is cosmopolitan in parts,but the cliched term historical exoticism suits Izmir best,as one is swept into the concurrence of various eras. We eat lunch at one of the many family-owned cafes near the olive market. While the grandmother brews Turkish coffee for us,her son Abdullah and grandson serve us lamb cutlets,steak,spinach in olive oil and bread and refill the wine glasses at regular intervals. All the food is prepared by Mrs Abdullah,and she leaves the kitchen only to return with a toothy smile and baskets of warm bread. Izmir does not boast of elaborate food and serves simple Turkish fare,but the warmth of the people,its historical significance and the calmness of the city lingers,as we head for Istanbul. With Izmir,one needs to go back.
