MARRAKECH MIX

Like most Moroccan cities,Marrakech consists of two parts. The old city is centred on the Medina,with its network of narrow alleyways and one of the busiest squares in Africa,Djemaa el Fna. To the west stands the more contemporary,mainly French-built new town,Gueliz. This is the modern face of Marrakech with chain hotels,bars and wide boulevards.

During the day,Medina’s main square is an unimpressive sight,bereft of a real focus and architectural landmarks. But the scene in the Djemaa el Fna as daylight begins to fade is one of life’s great experiences. It looked magical with a colourful collection of salesmen,entertainers,fortune-tellers,musicians,magicians and storytellers,all surrounded by an eager audience. The square was soon filled with smoke from the makeshift cafes where food is cooked over charcoal burners. It took us a while to settle into the square’s bizarre rhythm.

At long trestle tables under hurricane lamps,hungry customers were busy eating meat,rice and vegetables. As we strolled around to figure out a place to eat,a young man started singing I love my India (from the film Pardes). We still can’t decipher how he knew we were Indians. We let him lead us to his stall. Our meal began with a simple selection of mezze,which included a bowl of olives and cooked vegetable salads dressed with olive oil and served with a dip and flat bread. Plates of fresh fruit and glasses of mint tea marked the end of the meal. Thankfully,we were not served steamed lamb heads replete with eyeballs,which is a delicacy in Morocco.

We woke up the next morning with streams of strong sunlight marking our bedroom floor. The main rooftop terrace of our riad was replete with woven-leather chairs,daybeds and giant cushions to make one’s own for reading,eating,drinking,sunbathing or snoozing. All this with a view of the snow-covered peaks of the Atlas mountains,the mountain range that buffers the region from the climatic extremes of the Sahara.

After soaking in the sun,smells of rosewater and incense,we descended to our room for breakfast. The riad’s carved wooden doors,ornate metal jalousies,antique mirrors,intricate carvings,lanterns in alcoves and faded rugs reminded us of what we wanted to take back home. So we made our way to the souk —the ancient labyrinth of shops adjacent to the square . Every stall groaned under the weight of piles of bright spices,leather shoes,silver bowls,jewellery,embroidered clothes,sticky dates and honey. Bargaining in the souk is not only customary,it is expected. From a $1,000 silk rug to a $2 bracelet,every item demands intense negotiation. “Start at one-fourth the asking price and bargain patiently,aggressively and with humour,” a guidebook advised. We immediately took to this game, and walked out of shop after shop after several rounds of haggling. Inevitably the shopkeeper,an expert at the retail ballet,called after us in a contrived,defeated tone,“Ok,ok,what’s your final price?”

With a camel bone kettle purchased at a great price,we headed to the Majorelle Gardens one of the city’s loveliest strolling grounds. This lush garden was acquired in the 1980s by the famous designer Yves Saint Laurent,and the Museum of Islamic Art within the gardens contains some of the pottery he had collected,as well as paintings by the garden’s original owner,Jacques Majorelle.

But YS Laurent wasn’t the only celebrity to go gaga over Marrakech. For Winston Churchill,the draw was the rugged mountainous landscapes and the grande dame of Marrakech — La Mamounia Hotel. Today everyone from Julia Roberts,Jennifer Aniston to Naomi Campbell treads through its labyrinthine old lanes in search of opulent spas and designer boutiques making it the centre of North Africa’s style and nightlife circuit. But celebrity sighting was not on our list as we returned to the old city to visit the Dar Si Said Museum,the ruins of the El Badi Palace and the Palais de la Bahia,which was built in the 19th century using the most wonderful marble,stucco and mosaics.
This city has a bit of everything—majestic views and bargains,djellabas and babouches,bright colours and high energy.A fascinating place where chaos and calm go hand in hand.

FAST FACTS
Getting there:
Take an Emirates flight from Delhi to Casablanca via Dubai. There are regular Royal Air Maroc flights from Casablanca to Marrakech.
Best time to visit:
March-May,September and October.
Accommodation:
Palais Rhoul is a vision of fantasy and indulgence.
Although opulent,the hotel is informal and feels more like a palatial home,with no two rooms the same (they apparently redecorate twice a year to satisfy their regular guests). Doubles start at £220,including breakfast.
Eating:
Le Tobsil is a deeply romantic restaurant in the Medina,in a beautiful old riad. Accompanied by musicians playing laid-back local tunes,you dine on course after course of mezze dishes,two kinds of tagine,couscous,fresh fruit and pastries.
Shopping:
If you’re brave enough to barter in the souk,there are all sorts of wonderful things to snap up: carpets,tea glasses,embroidered slippers,brassware,cashews,fruit,spices and more.