Coast Along

British poet Lord Byron once famously labelled Dubrovnik as “the pearl of the Adriatic” and standing on the walls,over the city,it’s easy to see why. The walls encircle the city and are approximately 1,940 m high. The system includes bastions,watch towers,forts,and an army of cannons,and has been a part of the local landscape since Dubrovnik’s inception somewhere close to the seventh century (the walls as they stand today,are said to be from the 12th-17th century),and offer a bird’s eye view of both land and sea.

Dubrovnik,especially the historic old town,suffered major damage during the Croatian War of Independence in the early ’90s. The scars from shelling are visible to date. It took years of careful rebuilding to restore this Unesco World Heritage site to its former glory,but it’s been absolutely worth the effort.

Mljet:A history lesson later,it’s time for Mljet,one of the most popular Croatian islands. Even if you’ve never heard of Mljet,chances are that you know of it. They say Ulysses was shipwrecked here,in these waters,against these rocks,by a cave near the village of Babino Polje. It was here that he fell in love with the beautiful nymph Calypso. They say he spent seven years on the island entranced by the beauty — of the nymph or the island,I’m not sure. Mljet is green and unspoilt. A large part of the island is a protected national park. If the idea of the bright sun,open sea,clear lakes,and cascades to swim and dive under,lush greenery,rich forests,and multiple trails that encourage hikes and treks,appeal to you,Mljet is perfect.

Korčula:Island hopping in Croatia throws up surprises everywhere. My next stop is Korčula town,often called little Dubrovnik. It mimics the Dubrovnik fortification,but on a much smaller scale,giving it a cosier,toy-town vibe. That’s not to say it isn’t spectacular. The men of Korčula were known for their masonry using the local white stone. Their efforts can be seen during a walk along the island: smooth white stone has been perfected to form walls,towers,columns,churches,homes,bridges,archways,and even the cobbled streets.

Legend has it that Marco Polo was born here. Locals insist on it. There’s a museum,shops,restaurants,cafes,boats,all named after him. Along these tiny streets,it’s common to find big boards that scream: Marco Polo.

Maybe it’s the size of the town,but there’s a touch of magic and mysticism to the place. As a strain of traditional Klapa music floats out of an open window,it’s easy to forget time,and if it wasn’t for the occasional cell phone ringtone,this could very well be an era long gone.

Mali Ston:About 59 km from Dubrovnik is the island of Mali Ston on the Peljesac Peninsula. I trace the stone wall that runs from Mali Ston towards Ston with my finger. This used to be an important post of the old Dubrovnik defensive system. Today it provides a quiet escape from the tourist routes of southern Dalmatia. The Stons are sleepy villages — stone houses with satellite dishes poking out from the tiled roof and well-tended vegetable patches sprouting from the ground — surrounded by mountain and sea. The few odd tourists around are lining up by the two big restaurants on the waterfront after their tour of the walls. They say the Ston shells are some of the best in the world. And after devouring two platefuls (they were actually trays) of fresh oysters,I can vouch for that claim.

Pelješac:What’s a trip to these parts without a glass of wine? The Pelješac peninsula,running from Ston and Orebic,is known for wine producing traditions that date back to the arrival of the Greeks in the third century.

The whole region is a giant sprawling vineyard,with a dash of olive groves in between. While there are big (local) producers on the island,the charm of wine tasting here lies in visiting the many family-run wineries.

Follow one of the signboards along the road to small,independent cellars and taste their wines and their food — all sourced locally,probably from the surrounding family farm. Here you’ll learn the histories — of the family and the wine,the method of production,and the good years. You’ll also get the chance to buy any of the wines you’ve enjoyed. And while you’re at it,indulge in the pride of the peninsula,a glassful of the Plavac Mali or the Dingac; every sip is packed with the flavours of Croatia.

(Neha Puntambekar is a freelance writer from Mumbai,currently based in Zagreb,the Croatian capital.)