Meander to a medieval time at the castle of Cesky Krumlov in the Czech RepublicI was ready to chuck the GPS into the river in frustration. We had driven south from Prague to the medieval town of Cesky Krumlov to see the Czech Republics second largest castle complex and the freakish bend of the river Vltava around it. We couldnt figure out how to enter the town to get to our hotel in the medieval quarter of Latran. The GPS stubbornly kept sending us into a little car park on the side of a hill,to declare with finality,You have arrived at your destination, when we were nowhere near it. Calling the hotel for directions was no good either. I simply couldnt pronounce the name of the road we were on Objizdkova. I tried twice and started giggling the third time. Finally,we flagged down a trio of Czech youngsters and literally begged them to tell us how to get to Hotel Bellvue at the base of the castle.The group went into a little huddle discussing the possibilities. Then one of them said,Turn around,take a left,go down the hill,then make a right,after the U-turn go left again,cross the bridge,turn right,then park your car,turn right and walk up the hill and finally turn left. One look at our faces and they knew we were in a state of shock. One of the guys simplified it for us. Just look for signs to P2, he said which turned out to be a parking lot just near the entrance to the town. Suddenly the fog had lifted. It was like being able to figure out a labyrinth by looking at it from above. A short walk from the parking lot we were at our hotel,gasping agitatedly to the receptionist about our travails. Car access is limited because this is a Unesco World Heritage site, he informed us. But it still didnt explain the absence of good signposts to the entrance to the town. The following day however,we found that Cesky Krumlov can generously reward those who persevere in trying to find it. The river Vltava twists and bends mischievously around town looping in the shape of a capital S winding around three times. And,walking the network of cobblestone streets will engage the eager window-shopper and warm a historians heart. The one must-do in town is to take a tour of the Cesky Krumlov castle which towers over the little town. It is a massive complex,opening up into one courtyard after another,extending all along the side of the bend in the river,at an elevation which gives the beholder the impression that the castle has somehow organically risen out of the rock. The castle has belonged to three prominent Bohemian noble families over the last eight centuries and each family has extended it to suit its needs. So the castle has grown along the rim of the river like a train engine adding on more coaches as it moves ahead. The oldest part of the castle was built by the Vitek family. Then the House of Rozmberk inherited it and owned it for the next 300 years till 1602. Their stay in Cesky Krumlov gave the town a big cultural,economic and political boost. The medieval quarter,Latran,at the base of the castle sprang up to service the needs of the castle. Servants,merchants,craftsmen all crowded down below while the lords lived it up,quite literally. But even noble families have financial troubles and the castle had to be sold,and so it passed from the Rozmberks to the Eggenbergs. But this new family soon ran out of male heirs. And with no one to inherit the Cesky Krumlov castle,the Eggenbergs then sold it to the German Shwarzenberg family who held it till 1947 after which it was nationalised.The Schwarzenberg family had a most interesting coat of arms with the head of a poor Turk in the bottom right having his eye poked by the beak of an offending raven. How can Turkey ever join the EU?, I thought to myself. The castle has a baroque theatre which every guide book promises is a feast for the senses but it was unfortunately closed when we went. So were all the rafting tour operators for trips down the twisting Vltava.We sat down to a late lunch at the base of the castle,in one of the many restaurants that line the river and consoled ourselves. It was the price we had paid for beating the tourist traffic. And after the tourist throngs of Prague,it had been nice to walk through the Cesky Krumlov castle gardens as though we were a couple of Schwarzenbergs enjoying a walk in our private woods. FAST FACTSHow to get there: You cannot fly directly into Ceský Krumlov. You could either fly to Vienna or to Prague to get to Cesky Krumlov since the Schengen visa is valid in both Austria and the Czech Republic. Aeroflot offers the cheapest rates into Prague via Moscow starting at Rs 33,000 approx.Air India operates a direct flight to Vienna from New Delhi starting at Rs 36,000.Dont drive to Cesky Krumlov like we did. Just go by bus. It is cheaper than going by train and there are several bus operators. . A popular option is the Student Agency service which operates many trips during the day from Prague. Tickets can be booked at You can travel from Vienna in a shuttle bus service. Tickets can be booked at Best time to visit: Best months to go to Cesky Krumlov are May through August when there are lots of activities planned in town,including an International Music festival. It is best to book ahead for the rafts if you're interested in taking to the waters of the Vltava. Book at ( stay: Hotel Bellvue is very close to the Cesky Krumlov castle. It has small rooms but serves a really good breakfast to give the energy boost you will need to walk the length of the castle.Dont forget to: Carry Czech Koruna. Many restaurants and shops dont accept cards. Dont carry heels. Only a pair of good walking shoes will see off the challenge from the cobblestones.
