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This is an archive article published on June 19, 2000

Thrice on top, Pune woman mountaineer eyes Everest again

PUNE, JUNE 18: Much as she denies it, she obviously has a special attachment to Mount Everest. No wonder then that this spirited woman, wh...

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PUNE, JUNE 18: Much as she denies it, she obviously has a special attachment to Mount Everest. No wonder then that this spirited woman, who reached the summit twice in 1992 and 1993, created mountaineering history when she became the first woman to successfully lead an expedition to Mt Everest from Kangshung Face — the most dangerous and almost impossible route in 1999.

Santosh Yadav now has another ace up her sleeve. She plans to scale Mount Meckely — the coldest place in the world located in North Alaska in August this year. What’s more, she has planned her fourth expedition to the Everest, this time on the eastern ridge from the Chinese side.

In Pune to deliver a lecture on `Everest-99 — the Kangshung Face — the most difficult route on an invitation from the Nandu Page Smruti Giryarohan Granthalaya, Santosh Yadav said this route was attempted by the Japanese seven times before they succeeded. “It is my desire that Indians should also attempt something of this kind. It will certainly open a new chapter in the history of Indian mountaineering,” she said.

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When asked why she did not attempt the K-2 peak, the tough mountaineer said that this was a very “controversial” issue. Since the Indian side of the peak is very difficult, most mountaineers use the Pakistan route. But this would involve a lot of communication through diplomatic channels, she said. Yadav hoped for peace between the two nations so that mountaineers in future could benefit, “God willing, I will certainly attempt it.”

Yadav had a captive audience of mountaineers and enthusiasts who stood enthralled jamming even the corridors, as she related her experiences through the photographs. “It certainly was a tough expedition and there were many difficult decisions to make since only three of the seven members could finally make it to the summit,” she said. The reason, according to her, was fairly simple — some of the oxygen cylinders and masks were not working. Then there was her colleague who had hurt his eye right in the beginning of the expedition. The incident did demoralise the team members. But it was up to Yadav to put up a brave face and insist that everything was just fine and they had to continue.

The final climb was exhilarating but the sight that greeted her was a little disappointing. “I wish others who have already made it do not leave their muck behind and add to the litter there. South Column is the highest junk yard in the world, she said and narrated that there were remains of bodies of previous mountaineers atop. Yadav, however, left strict instructions for her team not to leave anything behind.

The mountaineer had a special word for Pune. During the expedition, it was ready-to-eat food from the Pune-based Tasty Bites that kept them going. “It was really delicious. I had never really eaten on expeditions before. But this time, the food was really appetizing and did not taste like anything canned,” she said.

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Yadav now plans to write a book about her experiences. “ I do not have much time. But I certainly plan to pursue it,” she said. In the meantime, there is plenty to catch up with — advising youngsters for instance and inculcating in them a love for mountaineering. And as elected member of the governing council of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation (IMF) and life member of the World Women Everest Foundation among other things, she certainly has a lot on her plate.

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