Tired in a satisfying kind of way, I returned to my cabin on board the African Queen. In Egypt on a holiday, I was on a cruise on the river Nile, journeying into the past, discovering myself anew. As the new ancient world began to to unfold itself, I felt my entire being infused with a fresh energy.The journey had begun at Luxor, 676 km south of Cairo, and it had been an enchanting day. I had invoked the blessings of the gods - Amun-Ra, Horus, Hathor; posed for photographs with the mighty Ramses II; shared secrets with Queen Hatshepsut; gazed at the stunning obelisk; descended into the tombs of the pharaohs in the Valley of the Kings and marvelled at the skill of the craftsmen who had made the stones come alive, added life and colour to pictures carved in stone.The banks of the Nile had been full of surprises. Now back `home' on the African Queen, I was preparing to rewind and relive the experience. But, on the tranquil waters of the river, another surprise was awaiting me. There was a spring in mystep as I walked the plank that spanned the river and marched into the boat, smiled at Karem at the reception, picked up my room key, bounded up the stairs, opened the door, bounced into the room and stood still. Mesmerised by what I saw. There, sitting on my bed was a swan. Where had it descended from? Then, I gathered my wits, looked closely and burst out laughing. The White Beauty was peering back at me through my glasses resting primly on its beak, and a little stuffed puppy that a friend had given me on my arrival in Cairo, by its side. This was no celestial being, no handiwork of the Almighty. A close inspection revealed that a pair of human hands had folded it from a towel, transforming a lifeless piece of cloth into a bird ready to flap its wings and fly away.The splendid carvings and majestic structures in stone on the banks of the Nile inspired awe, the `cloth sculpture' on the African Queen exuded warmth. Who was the owner of this skill at `cloth origami' and the thought that gave others joy? Iwould find that out later.The next day there were more temples to be seen, more surprises to discover. We sailed to Esna and Edfu, and I was back on the boat after spending the day learning the legend of Osiris, god of the dead, who was murdered and then restored to life; looking at the influence of the Ptolemies and the Romans on ancient Egypt's life and art. This time my room was occupied by an Egyptian wearing my sweater like a galabeya, the glasses on his nose, my cap on its head and the puppy by its side. Again a few towels magically come alive. By whom? I did a little bit of snooping - it was Mohamad Said Hashem, a member of the housekeeping staff, the craftsman who had fashioned those pieces of `art'.The third day we visited Kom-Ombo and I got acquainted with Cleopatra. On board I was that day to see Mohamad at work. Three towels were soon transformed into two crabs and a lotus that seemed to bloom before one's very eyes.The magic created by both ancient and modern hands had made me feelabsolutely new and willing to take on the world again. But soon, we were at Aswan and it was time to say goodbye and return to Cairo. The Pyramids were calling. The cruise up the Nile had proved to be truly rejuvenating.However, a return to Cairo did not really mean goodbye to the Nile and its magic. In Cairo, there were no swans but the fragrance of flowers kept me company. Three days after my return from Aswan, I was walking along the Nile in Kobri El Gamaa, a bunch of roses in my hand.But, that's another story.
