The Dangs is beautiful in this season of rains. Lush green fields of paddy and ragi skirt the edges of thick teak forests, monsoon-fed rivers undulate across the hilly terrain, streams and waterfalls shimmer in the glow of a gentle September sun. But this sylvan paradise conceals many secrets, and human misery is one of them. For the Dangs district in southeastern Gujarat, nestled between India’s two most industrialised states, is also among the poorest in the land.When the Planning Commission compiled its list of 150 poor districts for the National Food for Work Programme—based on the triple criteria of farm wages, farm productivity and proportion of scheduled castes and tribes—Dangs was at the bottom. With over 85 per cent of the district under forest cover and a 97 per cent adivasi population, it is easy to see why.Before the British came in 1825, the Bhils ruled the forests and let later waves of adivasis—Konkans, Varlis and others—till little parcels of land. British policy slowly ended the adivasis’ traditional rights over the forest and their practice of shifting cultivation.Independent India’s forest laws are not much different—reserved forests are out of bounds and rights of cultivation in ‘protected’ forests are limited. Yet nearly the entire population lives on agriculture. Little wonder, then, that Jeeval Pawar, a Bhil from Kangariyamal village in north Dangs, is all set for the annual migration to the cane factories in Surat and Bardoli.Unlike migrant labour from Bihar and Orissa, in the Dangs, entire families—74 per cent of the population according to a recent government survey—leave together and spend seven to eight months a year as koythas (cane-cutters) at rates of Rs 4,000-5,000 per season.