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This is an archive article published on March 22, 2004

Satyakama Iqbal

The climax of my trip to Lahore with Ajeet Cour’s delegation of SAARC writers was a dinner at Cooco’s Den. The haveli-front faces ...

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The climax of my trip to Lahore with Ajeet Cour’s delegation of SAARC writers was a dinner at Cooco’s Den. The haveli-front faces the spectacular domes and minarets of the Badshahi Mosque. Behind lie the shoulder-jammed kothas of Heera Mandi, Lahore’s red-light district. Cooco’s four floors are now dining spaces. The roof has the best view and catches the faint spring breeze. Each twist of the century-old stairwell reveals an eclectic taste at work. Carvings in wood and stone, a four-foot high Hanuman rampant in pure marble, devi-devtas, Buddha heads: all the broken dreams and imaginings of the subcontinent decorate the walls and niches.

Fabulous food in terracotta handis wafts out, concluding with the delicate Lahori pudding called “thoothi”. Each portion consists of two shallow earthern saucers in which the thoothi is set, served with one saucer inverted over the other. Cooco’s owner, the 50-ish Iqbal Hussain, is the son of a Heera Mandi prostitute. For the last 30 years, he’s painted the women of the quarter, a sort of Pakistani Toulouse-Lautrec. His large classically styled portraits of sad-eyed women show faces as depleted as empty thoothi saucers, knees sprawling in the tired manner of those who no longer see life as a gift.

Iqbal Hussain was a wild teenager, expelled thrice from school. Working as a petrol pump attendant, he was persuaded to apply to the National College of Art. His sister paid his fees, having followed her mother into prostitution. Zia ul-Haq refused him gallery permission, so he exhibited his work on the pavement. Today Hussain is an assistant professor in his old college (which nearly refused him admission because of his origin), but runs Cooco’s to support his many dependents, especially old women. The World Bank displayed his work last June in its Islamabad office and has apparently promised a loan of nearly 48 million dollars over the next five years to the Pakistan government to upgrade life in Heera Mandi.

Doesn’t this brave man, who refused to lie about his birth, remind you of an ancient dweller of this very land, Satyakama Jabali? The Chandogya Upanishad tells us of a young boy who wished to learn and showed up at the ashram of Rishi Haridrumata Gautama. “What is your parentage, dear boy?” asked the rishi. “My mother Jabala does not know, since she worked as a maid in many houses and cannot precisely say who my father is. She said to tell you that I am Jabali, the son of Jabala,” replied the boy unflinchingly. “Your courage in stating the truth makes you a worthy pupil,” said the rishi and “the teacher taught him — nothing was omitted, yea, nothing was omitted” (Chandogya Upanishad IV-ix-3).

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