The ascetic has always fascinated me. Dreadlocks waving in the wind, smoke billowing chillum in his hands, the saffron sarong and pale yellow sandalwood paste smeared over the face and body. The Ganga, the satsang, the Krishna Leela, the rejoicing, the pundits, the pilgrims — it was an overpowering call that made me book my ticket to Rishikesh. I imagined finding my own personal spiritual guru once I got there, someone who was going me to give the mantra for eternal bliss. Or, more modestly, the mantra for surviving the urban void.
I landed in Rishikesh at 3 pm, tired after the bumpy taxi ride from Dehradun and giddy with all the diesel fumes of the local buses. The adrenalin started pumping the moment I stepped onto Lakshman Jhula — the ropeway bridge that connects the two ghats of the Ganga. The smooth Ganga was inviting and I inhaled deeply. Suddenly a stench assailed my nostrils — I thought Ganga was dirty only in Hardwar but this smelt worse.
But I was not going to get bogged down by the smell. The search for spirituality is a tough one, I told myself. It requires the human being to rise above his senses. So I moved on. Sadhus were everywhere and though it must have looked strange, I stared each one in the eye — looking for my karmic destination. In vain.
The town’s best ashram only entertains those with advance bookings and foreign accents. Since I had neither, I was kept waiting for half an hour and after that, the receptionist bluntly told me there was no space. I couldn’t accept defeat. A call to my uncle with ‘political connections’ got me a cute little room but not facing the Ganga. It was no big deal. I wanted to be away from the terrible smell anyway.
Next morning, I went for the satsang on the Ganga ghat. I sat on the staircase that ends in Ganga. Near me, sat a baba — chubby and faintly Santa-like. I began asking him about God, Karma and life after death. And he was quite loquacious. But in five minutes, I could make out he wasn’t my spiritual guardian. He sounded like one of those pamphlets that are mechanically printed and distributed in the millions.
For the next four days, I must have spoken to at least a dozen possible gurus. But ‘the’ guru wasn’t there.
Looking back, the trip taught me a lot. There can’t really be a spiritual guru for me. No other human being can intercept the communion between my heart and mind. The trip to Rishikesh taught me that the ones who fall at the feet of ‘godmen’ are, more often than not, the ones who have lost touch with themselves.