Missing flavours

The dabbawallas of Mumbai 8212; all from three talukas near Pune 8212; have gained iconic status. But youngsters in these villages want to take up other jobs

When 15-year-old Mahado Havajee Bachche left Vawajavane village in Khed taluka in the 1890s and went to Mumbai, his thoughts were only for himself 8212; he had to eke out a livelihood. But as he left home, the teenager unwittingly left footprints 8212; so deep and distinct that for several years after him, youngsters only had to step in to be part of a profession that still holds the country and much of the world spell-bound.

Mahado Havajee was the first dabbawalla of Mumbai, the man who established that famed community that has earned accolades from personalities no less than Prince Charles and Richard Branson 8212; names even the impoverished and illiterate villagers of Vawajavane have learned to haltingly pronounce over the years. And even as they call themselves the 8216;Dabbawalla Village8217;, the pride emanates not just from the fact that the pioneer hailed from their soil, but also because at least one person from every household in the village is a dabbawalla.

8220;My son carts dabbas from Andheri to Ghatkopar. I have seven daughters and a son. What would we have done if he didn8217;t have this option of becoming a dabbawalla,8217;8217; asks 60-year-old Sitabai Ramu Bachche as she cradles her grandson.

The rain-splashed Vawajavane 8212; about 60 km from Pune, yet cut off from the world thanks to some treacherous roads 8212; is one of the many villages that make up the picturesque Khed taluka. Khed along with two other talukas, Maval and Mulshi, are home to nearly 90 per cent of the 5,000 dabbawallas in Mumbai today.

8220;Traditionally, dabbawallas are hired only from these talukas; they rarely take anyone from Mumbai. The reasons are not entirely emotional. It8217;s also because people here are strong and hardy,8217;8217; says Namdeo Bachche Patil, a farmer from Kadus village in Khed. While Patil8217;s father was a dabbawalla in Mumbai for some years, Patil took to agriculture. Kadus is also where Raghunath Medge, president of the Nutan Mumbai Tiffin Box Suppliers Charity Trust, has his home and thus, occupies a place of pride in the taluka.

The dabbawalla tradition has even spawned a new set of alternative careers. A few youngsters from these villages have moved to nearby Chakan and set up a tiffin service for the Maharashtra Industrial Development Corporation MIDC. 8220;With this, they have cashed in on their entrepreneurship as well as carried on with the tradition,8217;8217; smiles Patil. A fitting tribute perhaps to the ingenuity and enterprise of Mahado Havajee 8212; the man who never went to school, but devised a system that earned a Six Sigma quality certification endorsed by Forbes magazine. And yes, almost everybody here has heard of Six Sigma.

However, despite the obvious pride and fame that the dabbawallas have brought to these villages, the profession is slowly losing the charm among youngsters. Education has a role to play here 8212; Kadus has a school and a college. 8220;These days, only the uneducated ones become dabbawallas. After all, it8217;s not a well-paying job nor does it have the same status as an office job,8217;8217; says Santosh Damole, a contractor.

Story continues below this ad

Patil, the dabbawalla-turned-farmer who opted out of his father8217;s profession, doesn8217;t regret his decision. 8220;I went to school, was educated and saw no reason why I should struggle as a dabbawalla.8221; Patil8217;s two sons now look after his flourishing milk business 8211; they own 20 buffaloes 8211; and their nascent floriculture venture.

So though there are people like Murlidhar Pandurang Netgi, who after being a dabbawalla for 30 years has now sent his son to take his place, such instances are rare. 8220;When I became a dabbawalla, I earned Rs 30 a day. By the time I retired, I got Rs 90. Now my son gets about Rs 6,000 a month, which is much more than what I had ever earned. But youngsters these days have bigger ambitions,8221; says Netgi.

It8217;s not something Raghunath Medge is worried about. 8220;Those who are educated will obviously not want to become dabbawallas. But how many of them do well anyway? What about the vast majority of youngsters who fail to clear their Class X? Who will give them jobs,8217;8217; asks Megde.

Sunanda Mehta

Sunanda Mehta is the Resident Editor of The Indian Express in Pune. She is a distinguished journalist, columnist, and author with over three decades of experience in the media industry. Educational background: A merit-lister in her 12 th in CBSE (5th rank in Humanities) Sunanda stood first in History in the Board for which she was awarded the Dr Tarachand Gold Medal. She is a triple-graduate with a Bachelor of Arts (History Honours) from Lady Shri Ram College, New Delhi, Bachelor of Education, Delhi University (on scholarship) and Bachelor of Communication and Journalism, University of Pune. Professional Background Role: As Resident Editor, she oversees the Pune edition of The Indian Express, managing local news coverage, investigative features, and editorial direction for the city. Author: She is an accomplished author, known for her biographies. Her notable books include: The Extraordinary Life and Death of Sunanda Pushkar published by Pan Macmillan (2019). The book was long-listed for the Atta Galatta award for nonfiction and Auther award for best debut author. Majestic Musings - Translation of poems from 100 year old Badshaian from Punjabi to English (2023) Behind the Big Screen- the untold stories of child actors published by Bloomsbury India (2024) Focus Areas: While Sunanda has reported on various subjects from civic to political to investigative and crime, her forte remains long-form human-interest stories, heritage and gender issues. Core Column: "Against All Odds" Sunanda curates and writes a signature series titled "Against All Odds," which profiles individuals who have overcome significant personal, medical, or professional challenges. Recent notable articles (2025) The Story of Dr. Harinder Dhaliwal (July 2025): A Pune AFMC topper who became a neurologist in Canada despite becoming paraplegic. Jayoo Patwardhan’s Cancer Journey (Jan 2025): How the National Film Award-winning designer defeated cancer. Partha Iyengar’s Emergency mid-air (Aug 2025): The story of how Gartner’s India head survived a massive heart attack during a long-haul flight. Recent Notable Articles (Late 2025) Her recent reportage continues to explore deep personal narratives and Pune’s socio-environmental landscape: 1. Personal Narratives & Closure "'I grieved for him 10 years after his murder, found closure to unsolved case'" (Dec 14, 2025): A poignant feature on Vineet Alurkar, son of the late Pune music legend Suresh Alurkar, and how digitizing his father’s collection helped him heal. "A 40-day journey home: how Christopher Benninger's partner gave him the gift of memories" (Nov 23, 2025): A moving tribute to the late acclaimed architect Christopher Benninger and his final trip to the US. "'After 38 years I finally met my biological mother'" (Sept 28, 2025): Chronicling the journey of an adopted daughter from Zurich searching for her roots in Pune. 2. Civic & Heritage "'Vetal Tekdi belongs to common citizens'" (Oct 20, 2025): An interview with environmental activist Dr. Sushma Date on the community-led protection of Pune’s vital green lungs. "'Military village' Apshinge recalls living through war days" (Aug 12, 2025): A report from a village in Maharashtra where nearly every household has a member in the armed forces, focusing on their legacy and current anxieties. 3. High-Profile Commentary & Investigations "Malegaon blast acquittals: 'I was expecting this verdict'" (July 31, 2025): An interview with former special public prosecutor Rohini Salian following the controversial acquittals. "Grounded, license cancelled... she decided to soar higher" (March 30, 2025): The story of Dr. Harpreet A De Singh, Air India’s first woman pilot from 1988, and her transition to leadership and meditation. Signature Style Sunanda Mehta is known for her empathetic storytelling. Unlike standard news reporting, her features often read like narrative non-fiction, focusing on the psychological and emotional resilience of her subjects. One of her articles in The Indian Express titled 'The Quality of Mercy' was converted into a film Rubaru Roshini produced by actor Aamir Khan. She is a strong advocate for Pune's heritage and environment, frequently using her platform to amplify citizen-led movements. X (Twitter): @sunandamehta and @ExpressPune ... Read More