`Khajuraho of Vidarbha’ lies in utter state of neglect and ruins

In a area which is completely tribal-dominated, it is perhaps the only ancient Hindu temple of its stature. Little, however, has been done to preserve the temple or to study and reconstruct its historical importance.

Thanks to the utter apathy of the government, this first millennium temple (even the exact period of its construction is still not known), which owing to its intricate architectural beauty, is called Khajuraho of Vidarbha, is dying a slow death.

An annual ten-day fair during the Mahashivrathri festival, is the only time the temple comes into limelight. Numerous devotees from Maharashtra as well as adjoining Andhra Pradesh flock to this temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. But the temple reverts back to a desolate, ancient age for the rest of the year.

The approach road to the temple itself tells the tale of its utter neglect. A dusty track leads to the time-blackened sandstone structure. Only four trips of the State transport bus are scheduled per day. Others have to depend on private transport. A few roadside vendors selling ritualistic material is the only evidence of the existence of this religious spot.

As one enters the temple complex surrounded by a thick stone wall, one is captured by its beauty. Intricately-carved statuettes abound in the complex which now houses only four standing structures. Evidence shows that at least 18 to 24 structures stood in the complex at one time.

Almost immediately however, one’s attention is diverted to the other sorry aspects. The main temple – housing the Markandeshwar Shiva Linga (said to be worshipped by Sage Markandeya) – bears a tell-tale scar of a lightening that allegedly struck the temple-complex late in eighteenth century. It was later repaired by some Gond kings.

If this can be excused, other clear signs of continued destruction are more difficult to bear. A number of broken architectural pieces, including that of half-broken intricate statuettes, lie scattered in the complex, surrounding the small half-dilapidated temples.

The 12 Shivalingas – replicas of the 12 jyotirlingas in the country – have a weather-beaten, rusty look. Visitors, who have been to the temple earlier, look out for beautiful statues, that are simply missing from the complex.

The temple-complex, said to be built sometime between eighth and 10th centuries, has pitiably remained an archeological mystery. While a number of experts have attributed its construction to the Rashtrakuta kings (950 to 1050 AD), others say that the construction is much older.

Several fables are linked to the temple: one of them that a team of rakshasas (demons), directed by Vibhishan (Ravana’s brother), completed the construction of the temple in unbelievable six months.

A few stone inscriptions are found on the temple complex, but little has been done to reconstruct the history of the temple. This, when the temple-complex has been declared as a preserved site under the Ancient Monuments and Archeological Sites and Remains Act of 1958.

The architectural style is said to be what is known as `Hemadpanthi’. Several scholars have mentioned that the architectural style is very much similar to the seven-storeyed well-complex of Patan (Gujarat) constructed by Udaymati, wife of King Bhimdev of the Solanki dynasty (1022 to 1063).

However, with or without such labellings, the temple complex is undoubtedly an architectural marvel, that highly deserves recognition as a tourist spot.

A number of carvings, enumerating episodes from the Ramayana, Mahabharata and the Dashavatara of Lord Vishnu are engraved on the main temple-complex. The surrounding structures are also rich in architecture.

Presently, however, there are no evidences that could justify it being likened to Khajuraho, though earlier visitors swear that the temple-complex was at one-time adorned with statuettes of couples engaged in mithuna (sex act).

Another attraction is that it is perhaps the only place where the mighty Wainganga completely reverses its flow to the south-north direction. Further away from the temple, it completes an `S’ structure and regains its original north-south flow.

The State Government has, on its part, done nothing to save this spot although promises on its part of its maintenance have been umpteen.