Tucked away a bylane off MG Road is one of the oldest lanes in the city, Kolsa Galli. Unfamiliar to most of us, this 100-metre stretch has witnessed 120 years of change. The one thing that has survived is it's name.and a few memories of a glorious past.MG Road is synonymous with big departmental stores, boutiques, fast-food joints and numerous cool hangouts. A mere ten-minute walk down this perpetually crowded road and the scene changes. Kolsa Galli, a quaint, little lane is easy to miss. Unassuming, even unattractive when you compare it to the jazzy stores at this end of town, it remains a cultural heritage for all Puneites.It's hard to believe that Kolsa Galli has been around for more than 120 years. During the Raj days, this lane was popular for its coal shops which catered to the Cantonment and enjoyed a regular British clientale.That's how this piece of history got it's name. Most of those who owned shops here were Jews. Along with coal vendors, a few shops sold second-hand military uniforms and various accessories.Interestingly, it is said that armymen would shop here for a bargain and later exchange their wares at the army store for new ones.Today, there remain only two such military shops. Practices have changed. Zainuddin, a 55-year-old owner of one of them tells us, ``The old system of barter existed when my father was in the business. It's no more. Today, we sell tarpaulins and cloth for uniforms. People want new, good quality stuff.''A feature of Kolsa Galli and one that catches the eye is the residential quarters located immediately above the shops. Most shopowners have their families staying on top but recent times have seen a change. Few houses are leased out on rental basis as are some of the shops. The houses are as old as the lane itself and only one or two have undergone renovation.Islam Gudakuwala, a shoe-shop owner was born here and spent all of his 53 years in the lane. ``This lane has, for the last ten years, been famous for shoes. I was the first one to get into this business after our stove-repair unit became obsolete. Other shoe shops followed. Everybody realised that it was a good, profit-making enterprise. Earlier, we had people from middle and lower-middle class coming to us. Now, the customers are posh. Change in mode of business is inevitable. To earn good money, you've got to be innovative, think of ways to improve business.'' First, it was coal and stove shops. Then it was the tin-maker's time at Kolsa Galli. Today, shops are of all kinds dominate. There are shoe shops, glass works, a bakery, two stove-repair shops, two military shops, a stationary, a photo shop along with the usual grocery, a laundry and others. Most prominent are the glass works store. These have been around for a good 75 years. That makes them one of the oldest existing shops in Kolsa Galli. NoshirKanchwala is the second generation owner of one. His father started the business 60 years ago and today, Noshir carries on after his father's death. Says he,``This business will never become obsolete. Along with glass work, we also do the framing. Today, business is better than what it was during my father's time. But given a choice, I'd opt for the good old days.''Nostalgia runs high in this lane. Almost everybody agrees that the old days were better. Good relations with customers, low cost of living and less traffic were the norm. Asked if he had any plans to shift, Noshir shakes his head emphatically, ``No way! I wouldn't even think of it. Our businesses are well-established, people know my family.They trust us.'' The community fabric is mixed. The Jews were the first to settle in the lane. Somewhere along the line, probably after Independence, this enterprising community vanished from the lane. Nobody knows why or where. The current residents' opine they migrated to Israel when the Jewish state was set up in 1948.Bashir, a 55-year-old stove repairer, confesses,``This area is very sensitive. It is here that riots break out. But it is rare. All in all, there is a feeling of goodwill among the residents here.'' Among the oldest shops is the Persian Bakery. Proprietor Chagan has been working here for the last 35 years. He tells us that the owners are Zorastrians who started out 75 years ago. I t is best known for it's Persian sliced bread. Chagan says,``Today, customers want hygienic stuff, more variety and attractive wrapping.''Kolsa Galli, a historical treasure, has seen it all. Years of changing businesses, communities and lifestyles. One feature that has weathered the onslaught of development is it's name. Why is it still called Kolsa Galli when the coal shops closed down some 90 years ago? Most guess that businesses were so well established that a change of name would confuse regular customers and hamper recognition. So, the name remains, a testimony to the historical greatness of our city.
