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This is an archive article published on August 4, 2002

Horsing around in Jodhpurs

When the Jodhpur Polo team landed in England during the summer of 1925, Tatler described them ‘‘as hot as mustard’’ and ...

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When the Jodhpur Polo team landed in England during the summer of 1925, Tatler described them ‘‘as hot as mustard’’ and the headline in The Times read, ‘‘Maharaja with 60 ponies and four wives storms London.’’ They were at the time one of the best polo teams in the world. Led by the legendary Rao Raja Hanut Singh, one of the finest exponents of the sport ever, it had in its ranks his brothers Abhay Singh, Prithi Singh and Dalpat Singh, all with a handicap of +9, the total team handicap adding up to a staggering +36 (only world champions Argentina can now form a team of that standard).

For many years after The Great War, Jodhpur dominated not only Indian Polo but were a team to reckon with even in Europe. The team ceased to exist from the mid-30s — Jodhpur’s finest horses and players were given as a ‘‘wedding present’’ to Sawai Man Singh of Jaipur (late husband of Rajmata Gayatri Devi of Jaipur) when he married a Jodhpur princess in 1932.

In 1925, Tatler described the Jodhpur polo team as “hot as mustard,” while the headline in The Times read, “Maharaja with 60 ponies and four wives storms London.”

However, Jodhpur players still dominated and figured in many teams across the world. When India won the World Cup in Deaville in 1957, all the players were from Jodhpur. After a long spell of doom for Indian polo, it was in 1993, that the erstwhile maharaja of Jodhpur, Gaj Singh, revived the Jodhpur team. Now led by his son, Shivraj Singh, the team is back in the reckoning and since 1993, it has played abroad most summers, the only team from India to do so regularly.

It was in 1993 too, after a gap of 60 odd-years, that Jodhpur was invited to play in Kenya. It has not looked back since — 1995 saw the Eagle Challenge trophy being presented to the Nairobi Polo Club by Jodhpur. It is an annual fixture, played alternatively in Jodhpur and Nairobi. The team was then invited to France in 1998 by Patrick Hermes, a friend of Jodhpur Polo. Then Brazil in 1999, back to France in 2000, where we won the prestigious Hermes Cup, and Kenya again in 2001.

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This year we chose an unconquered country — Zambia. The team, known to play hard both on and off the field, stopped off in Europe en route. Shivraj had been invited to play in the Prince of Wales Cup in England – a happy hunting ground! Nikhil and I, in the meanwhile went to Saint-Tropez. And KV, the senior most player on the team was already in Lusaka (Zambia) practising on our behalf.

The week in St Tropez was extremely strenuous. Our normal day went something like this: We’d wake up around noon, with that morning after feeling, and have a half a dozen oysters for breakfast. Then after a quick swim, we would consume gallons of Tequila-Watermelon juice. By about 4 pm, a leisurely lunch at the famous Le Club 55. Then on to Villa Romano, a very popular beachside bar for some Gin & Tonics. Back home by 8 pm for a much needed nap. Ready to go again by 9:30, the sun was setting, a perfect excuse for a quick sundowner. After some delicious Spaghetti Vongole (the best spaghetti with clams I’ve ever eaten) it was time to head off with our hostess and some other house guests to Le Cave at the Byblos Hotel where we would dance till the wee hours. The polo season can be quite hectic!

We headed back to England, a tad exhausted, went to a friend’s birthday in the country. The theme, ‘James Bond 007,’ one of the most spectacular and fun parties we have been to. But it was time to head to Zambia. Finally, on July 1, we landed in Lusaka. The next morning we left for four days (of recuperation) to the picturesque and untouched Lower Zambezi National Park. We were joined by the rest of the team : Gaj Singh, who came with his daughter Shivranjani, KV (who had been practising on our behalf), his wife Shweta and son Janmejai, Beer baron Sanjiv Bali and his wife Kavita. Some of our Zambian friends came too. We stayed at a lovely tented camp on the banks of the Zambezi River. Days were spent game viewing, fishing, reading and generally having a good time. Idyllic. Hippo (the most dangerous animal in the African bush, apart from Nikhil) would graze next to our tents at night and on occasion a pride of lions would be seen lurking in the darkness.

Well rested, we reached the Lubombo Polo Club in Mazabuka for our first weekend of polo. Uday Kalaan was at the airstrip to receive us, he was in Zambia too, playing for the Lubombo Club. We played in different teams and none of us did too well. I had not played in a while and so after the first game, I was walking like a duck much to the amusement of both the Zambian and Jodhpur players. We had five days (during the week) with no polo so the Zambians had arranged for us to visit the Victoria Falls, where we spent three nights. The falls are extremely beautiful and the spray of water can be seen from miles away.

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We spent the final weekend in Lusaka, the matches between Zambia and Jodhpur were held at the Lilayi Polo Club, on the outskirts of town. There was a practice match on the last Friday that helped us get used to the horses and playing as a team once again. The Polo Ball at Lilayi the same evening was great fun and went on till late. Saturday and Sunday were the big matches. HRH The Litunga of Loziland (Chief of the Western Provinces of Zambia) was the chief guest. He arrived in traditional African style in a gust of vibrant colours with 25 members of his Cabinet, dozens of attendants and 15 drummers. According to tradition, the drums have to beat continuously through his reign. We lost by a goal on Saturday in the dying minutes of the match but all was not lost. If we won on Sunday by a larger margin, the series were ours. And we did.

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