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This is an archive article published on March 29, 2004

History al fresco

About three hours from Lahore on the way to Multan is a quaint little town, resembling any other village or small town in Pakistan. Except f...

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About three hours from Lahore on the way to Multan is a quaint little town, resembling any other village or small town in Pakistan. Except for the fact that it houses the remains of one of the world’s oldest civilisations. Harappa, one of the Indus Valley towns, dates back to the 3rd millennium BC but isn’t as well preserved as Moenjodaro. The Harappa Museum, at the entrance to the complex, displays interesting items — old scripts, shell objects and intricate pottery. The walk through the rest of the excavated sites is long and tedious. There is a well-defined drainage system, a cemetery, a granary and the remains of what were the workers quarters. Strangely, the site isn’t a restricted area — local villagers have full access — which also explains the difficulty in preservation. Some work is, however, now being done to develop Harappa as a tourist destination.

Heat & Dust

Multan is known for it’s heat, dust and burial grounds. A visit to this sleepy town, the largest in Southern Punjab, explains why. It certainly is the hottest, driest and dustiest place in the entire tour. The roads are bumpy and the traffic is no less than mayhem. One can see bullock carts, tongas, cycle rickshaws amongst various other modes of transport. The town is also known for its spiritual soul, which is reflected in the various shrines and mosques that dot Multan. Some of them date back to the 13th century. Most of them are around the ruins of Multan’s most impressive landmark, the Qasim Bagh Fort.

It’s not cricket

Maybe it’s the heat, but the excitement that was evident among fans at various other venues is absent in Multan. Most of the locals are disappointed with their team’s performance in the one-dayers. Our driver, a local, when asked about cricket fever in the city answers: ‘‘I don’t know much about cricket and after Wednesday’s performance I don’t want to know anyway.’’ Even the curious onlookers that were present during practice sessions outside the stadiums at the other cities are missing in Multan. Maybe it’ll take another century by local hero Inzamam-Ul-Haq, to get the crowds thronging the stadium once again.

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