We found Banwari Maharaj asleep under a tree, indifferent to the fine desert sand that flew around him. He is the custodian of Raja Shardul Singh’s chatri in Parsurampura, which was built in the Raja’s memory by his queen around 1760. Kripal Singh Shekawat, Rajasthan’s foremost traditional painter took me to see this chatri in a village in Shekhawati, where the villages are apathetic towards their painted havelis . The paintings were as wonderful as Kripal Singh Shekawat had promised, painted in black and warm red colours of the earth — limited, but conveying immense pictorial expression. They were painted before the British brought in bright, artificial colours around 1850, which gave the havelis a beauty different from the sober tones of Shardul Singh’s chatri. Practically everything in the region is doomed to return to the desert dust, but Shardul Singh’s chatri has decided to defy negligence for a while.