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This is an archive article published on August 6, 1998

God’s own land

You can see the colourful dome of the temple on the crest of the Parvati hill lifting itself from the screen of foliage right from a dist...

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You can see the colourful dome of the temple on the crest of the Parvati hill lifting itself from the screen of foliage right from a distance. As you take the Shahu Maharaj bridge between Neelayam theatre and Peshwe Park to the Shrimant Nanasaheb Peshwe chowk and start the uphill climb towards Parvati hill, you finally reach the base. The prospect of climbing 108 steps to the top may seem daunting but take a deep breath and plunge ahead in the firm belief that the climb will be worth it.

Benches to rest your feet and cucumber- and bhutta-sellers dot the winding ascent of the green hill. Enthusiastic children tripping up and down the steps, elderly gentlemen out on their morning walk and devout worshippers with coconuts and flowers are already around. The steep ascent makes for excellent exercise and naturally attracts joggers and early morning walkers.

The facade of the main Devdeveshwar temple at the summit, constructed in 1749 by Nanasaheb Peshwa, with its entrance guarded by two bhairavas, makes an impressive picture. On the four sides of the courtyard inside, bounded by a terrace, stand smaller temples dedicated to Ganesh, Bhavani, Vishnu and Suryanarayan. But the central temple with the brass idols of Goddess Parvati and Ganpati and the silver idol of Lord Shiva is definitely the main attraction.

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The gold idols of Parvati and Gajanan were stolen from the temple in 1932, and replaced by the current idols. Legend has it that there existed an underground tunnel which led from the Parvati hill near the temple to the Shaniwar Wada. From the parapet above, where a refreshing cool breeze blows (at the cost of Re 1), one can get a panoramic view of the bustling Pune set out below. The temple, whose administration is looked after by the Devdeveshwar Sansthan trust, is open from 4 am to 8.30 pm.

A tribute to the powerful Peshwas, the Peshwa Sangrahalaya, constructed two years ago on the lines of a typical wada of the Peshwa times, adjacent to the temple, is worth a visit. Time seems to stand still as you enter the museum, its carved wooden arches and ceiling studded with chandeliers.

Palanquins and boxes make up the central hall while the walls adorned with paintings of the Peshwas are lined with glass cases containing coins, headgear, attire, locks, betel nut crackers… all belonging to the Peshwa era. There is an entrance fee of Rs 3 per head and the museum is open between 7.30 am and 8 pm on all days.

In the area behind the museum stands the samadhi of Nanasaheb Peshwa, where he breathed his last in 1761. A charming courtyard nearby houses the Kartik Swamy temple and a little ahead, a small garden path leads to the Vishnu Narayan temple, both of them lined with trees and plants.

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As you begin the sloping descent back to the foothills, it is the image of a picturesque spot sanctified by the presence of the deity that you will carry back with you.

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