Faded and Forgotten

The Nayakas who ruled over Thanjavur in the 16th century covered the Chola paintings with rather inferior paintings of their own. The Archaeological Survey of India implemented a rather risky method of separating the two layers of painting from each other. A written account mentions the protection of the top layer of Nayak paintings with cloth and paper and then continues by saying that ‘‘two incisions equal in depth to the thickness of the layer to be detached were carefully made with knife that no mark or scratch on the underneath layer occurred’’. When I first saw these paintings several years ago I was puzzled to see deep horizontal and vertical cuts in the Chola paintings that reached the granite wall on which they had been painted and wondered how that had happened. The paintings were protected by the walls around them so there was no danger there. Visitors require permission to enter and are never without an escort; photography is allowed with great reluctance. Where then, did these cuts come from? And why do the paintings look as though they have been rubbed away almost to the point of non-existence? There is no evidence of dampness which could have been a factor to reckon with, neither has Mr A K Seshadri, has not made any mention of it in his book on Brihadisvara. He seems content to say that they (ASI) have ‘‘done a marvellous job in sparing no pains to strip off and expose the original Chola paintings’’. About the Nayaka paintings he says that they ‘‘are not clearly visible as most of them have either fallen of faded’’. Faded? Where there is no light? And how did they fall? Were there environmental reasons or clumsy human intervention? I spent two days trying to locate the peeled off Nayaka paintings but was thwarted by no keys, no custodian, no idea where they were, no permission. I am left with many questions and no true answers. Lack of professionalism and training leads to obscure responses; knowledge and expertise make way for clarity and communication.

— Write to rupikachawla@

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