City of Tiny Lights

Built by and named after Emperor Charles IV, the bridge was the only link between the Lesser Quarter or Mala Strana and the Old Town or Stare Mesto for almost 500 years, until the 19th century. Thirty imposing statues dating from the 18th century lend a grand aura to the bridge.

From the disaster reports on television and newspapers on the swirling floods, it seemed rather unlikely that the 645-year-old bridge would escape damage. So I dashed off a frantic mail to the Czech Tourist Authority and eagerly waited for a reply. I took the delay in a response to be an indicator of the graveness of the scenario, so imagine my relief and surprise on receiving a mail that said that not a single monument in the city had been damaged!

I was suddenly reminded of the horoscope made by Charles IV to forecast the auspicious hour for the launch of his dream project in the historic city. The palace astrologers made a chart and gave an astrological calculation of odd numbers in ascending and descending order i.e. 135797531. The king then ordered the foundation to be laid in the year 1357, on July 9 (9.7.), at 5.31 am!

In the mid-14th century, Emperor Charles also founded the New Town, the area worst affected by the floods. Of course, the people have suffered a terrible loss but they are happy that their city has survived.

Prague, with its unbelievable beauty and vibrating lifestyles, has become a popular destination in the post-Soviet liberal era, in the Nineties. Typically, in July and August, Europe’s peak summer season, Prague is filled with tourists from all over the world. Though the floods dealt a major blow to the tourism business — incidentally, it involves even more people than a national election — this season, the large numbers of tourists present in the city actually joined hands in staving off the calamity, as Hollywood star and former James Bond, Sean Connery, who was on location for a shoot, himself testified.

My first visit to the Czech Republic early June was rather short but such was the impact of the ‘Golden City’ — Prague is also known as the ‘Magical City’ — that it became difficult to resist the temptation of visiting it once again before returning to India. Prague was once part of the grand and powerful Habsburg Empire and so the city has the same imperial aura that lingers in Vienna. The city exudes music as you walk the winding, medieval lanes, on which Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart once stepped.

Again, like Vienna, ticket sellers for classical music concerts can be seen clad in period costumes during summer. It was quite comical to see a Sardar with a colourful turban on his head mingling among the white wigs and brocade coats, canvassing for an Indian restaurant with a placard. The cobbled, narrow streets inspired modernist author Franz Kafka to write many of his stories and novels here. It is a special experience to walk, ride a carriage or take a vintage car tour of the historical city.

The Castle District is clearly demarcated and it is where the President resides today. The New Town is here, as are the cathedrals, museums, cultural life and the traditions of handicrafts — even several hours are not sufficient to admire the beauty of the world-famous crystalware. Almost every part of the Castle District and the New Town is now a pedestrian zone. A special Silver Mile has also been marked out so that one can have a leisurely walking tour of the Castle District. For beer lovers, the country is a must, as Czech beer jostles with leading European beers for pride of place and the Czech Tourist Board even promotes a beer trail for lager lovers.

Perhaps the best aspect of Prague is that most locals speak English, a fact that even guide books highlight. This brings Petra into the story. Twenty-six-year-old Petra is a driver of a vintage 1923 Skoda car and with a rose which she offers to all her clients, she instantly draws the attention of almost all the visitors in the square. Her warm smile leads to an interesting conversation and she extends an invitation to ride with her when she finishes duty later in the day. The next morning, on her way to the square, she gave us yet another ride.

Prague presents a total contrast to what people may imagine of a former East Bloc country. But it would do well to remember that the Czechs prefer the their country to be considered part of Central Europe, rather than in the east. And rightfully so.