Black is beautiful

So what is it about this few yards of material, what psychologists call a "non-colour"? Why has it touched a zenith that no fashion movement can displace? While boutique owners cannot always explain the phenomenon, there will never be a time when they don’t stock it. Priya Ailawadi of Oaktree, an upmarket store in the backlanes of Colaba, says she is nervous ifher shop does not stock black dresses. "They are in constant demand. The black dress is so safe. You can’t go wrong with it. It works in any gathering. And many women feel more confident in their black number," says she.

But the one blessing that the black dress bestows on its wearer is that it flatters any form. The colour hides a woman’s sins of big hips, bulging stomach and yesterday’s dietary excesses. It also spells the word sexy. All that with just one outfit — then how can other colours even begin to live up to those expectations.

And it’s a trade secret that models are quick to pick up on. Says India’s first super model, Mehr Jessia, "My mother is always complaining that most of my wardrobe is black."

But the past few years have seen the black dress face it’s bleakest times yet. Both Priya and designer Rocky S have noticed that the fastest moving item in their shops these days are trousers. Influenced by veejays, today’s hip and trendy teenyboppers are all wearing hipsters with short crop tops. "People are more adventurous than they used to be three years ago," says Rocky S. And black no longer dominates the look of the year. As a result, his next range will be in fluorescent hues until August 1997.

Designer Monisha Jaising also feels that women feel more confident in trousers. "They feel more equal. Some women are put-off by men staring at their legs. In trousers, they feel they can roam more freely," she says. She also points out that the trousers that are presently in vogue are very complimentary to the female figure. "The boot-leg trousers makes you look slimmer and taller," adds Monisha.

And some designers, like James Ferreira, are actually exulting the death of the black dress. He believes that Indian skins should avoid black altogether. He finds the black dress seen in Mumbai’s pubs very vulgar. "They are badly cut dresses, made in jersey and show every lump on the body," says Ferreira. But he reserves his cutting-edge criticism for ageing socialites who think the black dress will hide the vagaries of age. He says, "Look at the way our socialites dress, it is terrible."

But it’s not just short-sighted women who are keeping the dress alive. It’s the men who are the most fervent supporters of the black dress.

"A boyfriend shopping for his girlfriend will always buy a little black dress — men like to see legs," says Monisha. Mehr agrees and insists that even with the popularity of trousers, the black dress will be an evergreen. "You will always have two or three black dresses in your cupboard. And when it comes to updating your wardrobe, the black dress will come first," she says.

And it seems that the world is once again waking up to that fact. The dress is once again making a comeback to the forefront of fashion. All the high priests of European fashion had entire collections comprising of dresses — including the little black number. And sure enough, this phenomenon will pick up in Mumbai. As Priya says, "Trousers were the fashion item last year in Europe. This year while it is the dress that is in, everyone here is now into trousers. By next year, we will be seeing the return of the dress."

And even Ferreira admits that the black dress will make its way to women’s wardrobes, regardless of budget. Says he, "I wish it was not here to stay, but it is."