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This is an archive article published on September 15, 2002

Beyond The Beauty Myth

In a country where the beauty pageant has become the most favoured stage for career advancement among young women, neither feminists nor pro...

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In a country where the beauty pageant has become the most favoured stage for career advancement among young women, neither feminists nor professional women can afford to dismiss, or at the very least, ignore the “achievements” of our Aishwarya Rais, Sushmita Sens, Yukta Mookheys, Diana Haydens and Lara Duttas. After all, goes the simple question that puts an end to further argument, in which other field have we won so many world titles?

The Beauty Game by journalist Anita Anand situates the growth of the Indian beauty industry within the larger, global debate on the ethics of “female objectification” and suggestions of commercial exploitation. But it becomes quite clear right at the outset that Anand wishes to be an observer, not an opinion-giver. Unlike any other feminist worth her copy of Susan Faludi’s Backlash, she makes a conscious effort to abstain from taking sides — or, unlike Germaine Greer, to allow herself the ‘‘time to get angry again.’’

Instead, she documents the birth of the cult of the manufactured beauty goddess in India, from the time of Reita Feria who borrowed her mother’s sari and went for Miss India contest barefoot because her sandals broke, to the days of the Mookheys and Haydens, when Pradeep Guha’s winning ‘‘crack team’’ (phrase his) of beauty-makers ‘‘who do India proud every year’’ use their skills of rhinoplasty, silicon injections and teeth-jobs to create a professional pageant winner year after year. She documents the increase in beauty pageants (21 in the capital alone), offers data supporting her claim that Rai is the biggest female icon amongst teenage girls and establishes the link between beauty and its business, with international brands and old Indian players jostling to increase their marketshares.

The Beauty Game
By Anita Anand
Penguin India
Price: Rs 250

She profiles beauty makers such as Delhi dietician Shikha Sharma (who says she found that, despite being a doctor, pretty women got all the good jobs) , Blossom Kochchar, Shahnaz Husain, Vinita Jain of Biotique and Dr Jamuna Pai who owns a centre for aesthetic medicine.

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But “beauty”, Anand implies, can come at a price. She notes that 11-year-olds are coming into parlours to get their legs waxed, that Mumbai colleges report a high number of women suffering from disorders related to forced starvation.

And on the one hand you have a Madhu Sapre looking back on her life and saying, ‘‘I look at myself from the outside and see that I have so much potential, I look great and all I am doing is just modelling.’’ On the other hand, there is Diana Hayden saying: ‘‘You get treated like royalty, you travel first class, you live in presidential suites… hello, who’s complaining?’’ Are they victims of the beauty myth or goddesses who chart their own destinies? Anand doesn’t give her verdict.

The sheer horror of it all can be sensed within these pages, but the author lets it be seen as the tip of the iceberg, bobbing up and down, depending on the opinion on offer. And through it all, Anand — hats, gloves and bustier off to her — doesn’t at any point get hysterical, remembering to document rather than pass judgement. Instead, she observes mildly that in a country where all other achievements of women are overshadowed or suppressed compared to those of men, ‘‘women feel it will take a beauty crown for them to make it to the front pages and get an audience with the prime minister or president.’’

At the end of this book, however, you wonder why that argument still does not leave you with a feel-good sense of empowerment.

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